Art History Alive

arthisto December 15th, 2011

Abbey and Monastery, Sant Antimo , Tuscany

Almost everywhere you look in Tuscany, the view is like a backdrop, and this time, we were the movie. Spending five days in September, wandering the quiet back alleys of Sorano, moved by Gregorian Chants in this ancient abbey, and sleeping each night in a castle, we did feel as though we were in a movie. For those five days, we really “lived” in Tuscany. We woke each morning and made our own lattes in the kitchen of our castle apartment. I can smell that hot espresso bubbling right now. Add to that the hot milk and some sugar, and it’s going to be another good day.

We drove up, down, and around those pretty hills, lunched in some great new finds, and visited La Foce, again. Jim and I have found that we cannot get near La Foce without stopping in to just be there. La Foce is a gracious villa that supported several farms in the heart of Tuscany, and ended up right in the center of the World War II fighting. If the walls could talk. The story of La Foce, and all that happened there, both sad and heroic, is in a slim book entitled, War in Val d’Orcia: An Italian War Diary, 1943-1944, by Iris Origo. Signore and Signora Origo owned and lived in the villa during this time—a first hand account, to be sure. Now, the villa has apartments to book and produces some delicious olive oil, which I have in my pantry. Seems sort of extravagant that we do our olive oil shopping in Italy, but we do.

Our anchor in Tuscany is Castello di Proceno. Such a precious place owned by a wonderful couple that we love. Built in the 11th century, acquired by the ancestors of the current owners in the 15th century, the castle is decorated not just with antiques but with Etruscan antiquities, unearthed on the property, dating back to 700 BC.

Up on a rocky spur, this castle fortress has defended the tiny town of Proceno for centuries. Located just up the hill from what for hundreds of years was the main road from Florence to Rome, and from the Catholic pilgrimage route from Germany to Rome, the Americans and Germans also occupied Castello di Proceno in turn, during World War II. The art and history in this place lives, which is why Jim and I return year after year, and this castle is the perfect place for Art History Alive guests to stay.

No trip to Tuscany would be complete without lunch at the outrageous Osteria Acquacheta in Montepulciano. No vegetarians allowed! This is a steakhouse, Italian style. The owner, who carries a rather bloody meat cleaver in his belt, draws a diagram of a steak on your paper tablecloth and asks (forcefully) if you want the whole (that would be the porterhouse cut) or a smaller piece, the NY. You point, and he clomps off to his huge butcher’s block placed in front of a roaring fireplace in the back. Whack, whack! A huge steak is slapped on a piece of butcher paper, weighed, and brought to your table for approval. Our steak was the size of a newborn, no kidding. If you like what you see, you nod, he calculates the cost, again on the handy paper tablecloth, you nod again, and off it goes to the fireplace. The rareness of the still-sizzling steak upon delivery to your table indicates that it has not spent much time on the grate, but WOW, is it delicious! This place is a must for meat eaters. It is loud, raucous, the staff is great, and you make friends with the people at the table 3” from yours. Really, really fun!

Orvieto, just 45 minutes from the castello, is such a big, beautiful hill town. I love everything about it, because it has everything. A fantastic cathedral with breathtaking art and history, winding streets with fun shopping, delicious hidden restaurants, and amazing people watching. The more I visit, the more I love it.

AHA  will be in Tuscany twice in 2012. July 12-18, we will share an Italian music festival at Castello di Proceno, with a very small group of guests, Musica in Tuscany, a Castle Courtyard Concert. And again, September 30 – October 8, with Rome and Tuscany, a Colosseum and a Castle. If you want to know Tuscany, these two itineraries were designed to accomplish just that. In fact, all of our itineraries are created with one thing in mind, getting to really know your destination.

After five leisurely days of just “being” in Tuscany, we are packing and girding ourselves for the upcoming five days in our very favorite, Rome! After Tuscany, it can be a shock to your system. But we will be there on a Sunday, so we are planning to gather with thousands in St. Peter’s Square to see and hear Pope Benedict. We have done this many times over the years, and there is something very special about it.

I will post about our time in Rome in the New Year. It was FANTASTIC.

UGLY AMERICAN ALERT: After our lunch at Aquacheta and an afternoon ramble around picturesque Montepulciano, we were headed back to our car

Steak for two, Acquacheta

about 6PM. Our route took us past the now-closed Aquacheta. Standing in front, trying to peer in the windows, was a very American couple with a computer printout in hand. We were the only other
folks on the street so, in apparent desperation, they looked at us with frustration.

Jim says: “Great restaurant! Delicious! You’ll love it,” and keeps moving.
Woman: (In a whine) “Yes, we’ve heard about it, but it isn’t open.”
Jim: “No, it will open about 7:30 for dinner.”
Man: (Angrily) “If it is so good, why isn’t it open at dinnertime?!”

Cyndie: Walking away, a little ashamed and shaking head.

It was 6PM, he was hungry, and they walked away to find some place, any place that was open. I guess he thought he was still in the states where dinnertime is dinnertime.

TRAVEL TIP: In Italy, the only people in a restaurant having dinner before 8PM are either Americans or Canadians. By grabbing a piece of pizza or a gelato around 4PM, you’ll be hungry when the restaurants are hopping Italian-style.

New Friends, Estela and Gianni, Acquacheta

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arthisto November 15th, 2011

Above Bellagio, Lunch, Baita Belvedere

I recently Googled the 10 most beautiful lakes in the world, and, I think I need to speak to the judges. Lago di Como did not make the cut, and I wondered about the criteria. I suppose it would be impossible to judge a place on the way it makes you feel. Well, not for me it isn’t.

For visitors, Lake Como has two distinct faces. One really fun and alive, with this big blue beautiful backdrop but focused on the shore, and the other focused right smack on “The Lake.” For me, it all depends on where you stay. I have visited both faces and prefer strongly to focus on the lake. I can shop anywhere.

For over 30 years I have held onto a small, really dated brochure on a place I’d written to before email. This brochure has been suspended over the trash bin several times, but I had a hunch. Something about this hotel drew me in, and someday, I thought, I would at least give it a drive-by. Finally, after all these years and many visits to Lago di Como and some of her very pretty hotels, we spent five beautiful days at the Hotel San Giorgio, in Lenno, and now I know that my hunch was right, because this place is a treasure.

Even though many villa-hotels dot the lakeside, none that I could find have the magic ingredient

Lake Entrance to Villa Balbianello

that the San Giorgio has, and that is the huge rolling lawn and garden that sweep from the hotel down to the lapping edge of the lake. Dotted with chaise lounges, chairs, and small tables all facing the lake (and Bellagio on the opposite shore), it is quiet, restful, and magical. Whether we started our day there in the sun, or ended our day with the sunset, it is what sets the Hotel San Giorgio apart, and it is why I want to share it with AHA guests who surely will love it. Another discovery of a 3-star+ property with a 5-star location—my favorite combo.

Always fun is a boat ride/day trip to beautiful and hopping Bellagio. Thanks to Maggie McKenny-Harris, our intrepid researcher, we experienced a lunch

there that we won’t forget. While all the bustling crowds are winding around the pretty alleyways of Bellagio, Chiara picked us up and whisked us away, up, up, up above the city to the slow food, farm-to-table Trattoria Baita Belvedere, where we were the only English speakers, and we love that. The homemade cheeses, succulent simmered boar, and fresh porcini mushrooms were fabulous, as the back of the Swiss Alps stared across the lake at us, and we looked down on the top of Bellagio. Peace and beauty.

Ice Cream and Oranges on an Island

From Villa Melzi, owned by Napoleon and by Liszt, to Villa Carlotta with its fantastic gardens, the prize- winner for me was the old monastery converted

into Villa Balbianello. Perched on a promontory that juts out into the lake with water on three sides, it is as if it were floating. A short boat ride from the Hotel San Giorgio, this villa, it’s history, collections, and gardens are absolutely staggering.

Isola Comacina is the only island in the lake and a must-stop for lunch on any Lake Como itinerary. And why would anyone pass a seven-course lunch on a stone terrace, overlooking the lake and under spreading shade trees? Please! The freshest ingredients served simply over a lazy three hours include twelve different vegetables, gorgeous pink trout, chicken, and aged parmigiana scooped out of the wheel and plopped right into your palm. And every course is bottomless. Everyone finishes with ice cream and oranges, highlighted by a coffee ceremony featuring sweet scalding espresso and an intriguing tale of island history. OK, I’m there. Back on the mainland, we were thankful we had walked along the pretty greenway from the hotel. We hoped we could negotiate the winding walkway back, but the lounges on the lawn at the Hotel San Giorgio were calling to us, shhhh, nap, nap, nap. Lago di Como has become, or more likely always was, a place to run to, escape into, a place to let down and go limp.

Art History Alive will be traveling to Lago di Como in the Fall of 2013. All of the above-mentioned places will be part of the itinerary, and there will be other surprises as well. Group size will be 6. Start dreaming.

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arthisto October 24th, 2011

Two Hidden Restaurants, Tuscany

After our last research trip to Italy, I wrote a post entitled, “Wonderful Discoveries and Dismal Disappointments.”  Not so this time—it was all good!

We planned this trip as a working vacation with concentration on three of our favorite spots in Italy. We stayed in each for five days, determined to stay long enough to unpack, settle in, and catch the spirit of the place, which is just what we did.
With five days on the edge of Lake Como, five more at Castello di Proceno in southern-most Tuscany, and five more in our favorite, Rome, we had a wonderful and relaxing time as we explored historic villas and their gardens, rediscovered beautiful hill towns, and visited favorite places that still  move us. We ate in dozens of delicious restaurants, and had tours of some of the most beautiful, historic, and hidden hotels ever.
Before I go any further, I must thank our researcher, Maggie McKenny-Harris, for the list of hotels and restaurants that she painstakingly compiled after, what must ave been, hours and hours of research and interviews. After trying just two of her suggestions, I knew that I was armed with something very, very valuable indeed. Maggie had us in places I would never have found on my own—quaint, characteristic, historic, family-owned, and always, always lovely. Our guests will be so very thrilled with the amazing hotels and incredible restaurants that have now been added to the AHA list. After a little bounce on the beds, I touch the sheets and pillows, I am all over the bathrooms, into the breakfast rooms, and up on the rooftops. After each new find, we toasted Maggie, and I can’t wait to return to these places myself.  Thank you, Maggie, for finding these beautiful little boutique, out-of-the-way spots that our guests will love.
I will post again soon on our lazy time on the edge of Lago di Como, and, for those who will travel there with us, what you have to look forward to. I will follow with a post on Tuscany, our castle, and the upcoming Music Festival trip July 12 – 18, 2012, and the Tuscany Rome trip September 30-October 8, 2012, and finish the series with a post on what is in store for our travelers to Rome, both in September and Rome, October 10-17, 2012.

If you are curious as to what we found by following the primitive signs in the photo above, it was no big deal, just lunch in an Etruscan cave, circa 700 BC! Everything tastes better in a place like this, and welcome to cultural immersion. Thank you, Maggie!

Until we are there again, it is nice to be home, but I can still feel those warm cobblestones under my feet.
Cynthia

Lunch in an Etruscan cave, circa 700 BC

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arthisto September 11th, 2011

September 11, 2011

AHA had a sold out trip to Paris ready to depart on September 13, 2001, when everything changed. On September 13, 2001 there were no planes leaving the ground, the whole world had been put on hold.

Fast forward one year to September 11, 2002, the first anniversary of those despicable terrorist attacks against our country.  AHA is in Paris with a great group of clients, looking forward to our final dinner together in this City of Light. Our all-glass restaurant came highly recommended, was the top story of a tall building, located on the left bank of the Seine, overlooking the gorgeous flying buttresses of Notre Dame.  The menu was different, creative and Middle Eastern.  Why?  Because our dinner restaurant, on September 11^, 2002, just happened to be the top floor of the Muslim Institute, Paris. Funny how things happen. We dined on lamb with apricots and cashews and since it was our last night in Paris, on our way out, we all stood at the floor to ceiling windows to take a last look at this twinkling city.  We were startled out of our reverie by a loud WOOSH sound outside and to our right. Silently we stared across the Seine to the plaza in front of the Hotel du Ville, Paris’s city hall, where the sound had come from.  Unbeknownst to us, in memory of what had happened in the United States one year earlier, Paris lit two huge, perfectly square beams of light that shot up into the night sky for as far as you could see.

Caught completely by surprise, my guests and I did not speak a word.  As we processed what we were seeing, the other restaurant customers quietly stood, and in silence some raised their glasses while others bowed their heads. On that night that I will never ever forget, we were very proud to be Americans in Paris, we knew we were not in this alone, and we fell more in love with Paris than we thought possible.

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arthisto October 25th, 2010

Four Friends, Yosemite National Park

First of all, let me say thank you, thank you, thank you, to my Art History Alive guests!  Jill, Katherine and Marty, you are wonderful!  Wow, did we ever have fun!  I live here, designed this itinerary and it was eye-candy overload, even for me!  It also amazes me how like-minded strangers can come together on an AHA trip, and within two days are exchanging book titles, email addresses, sharing recipes, and desserts.

Beginning with the fab lunch at House of Nanking in San Francisco, and the fortune cookie factory, the die was cast for this trip.  From the message/facials and wine tasting in Sonora and Murphy’s to the views from the picture windows in our Ahwahnee guest rooms of Yosemite Falls and Half Dome, taking in picnics to prime rib dinners, we still found time to do a little shopping and enjoyed each other so much.  Guests returned home with pretty new bracelets, earrings, and of course, shoes, plus cameras full of images.  One day we began with a late and lingering breakfast in the very beautiful and gracious Ahwahnee dining room, and ended with dinner in the oh so Californian In and Out Burger, Merced.  One end of the spectrum to the other.

Big Sur and Carmel were the icing on the cake, and where Katherine and Jill had to be dragged away with promises of returning.  Thank you ladies, I had a wonderful time.  And here is to being together again in Tuscany and Rome in June!

Thank you to The Gunn House in Sonora.  Shirley, Emma, and Tiffany, spoiled us tremendously, and I am still dreaming about that pink grapefruit cake, Shirley, and looking forward to our return.  To Gail Warren and Toni Burrell for the wonderful and relaxing spa treatments in Sonora, that my guests loved and raved about, to Sewell Hatcher at Hatcher Wines in Murphy’s, for making delicious wine and the tasting so fun.

On this trip, California is the shining star, what a magnificent state!

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arthisto September 20th, 2010

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I came to Italy for the art, history, ancient architecture, scenic beauty, food, wine, hill towns, landscapes, and loving it all, I return for Rome.

Why does one place reach out and hug you, and others simply don’t?  No one really knows, and further, who cares, it just happens.  However, when it happens, it is very personal, and at the same time, very intimate.  For some it’s a sandy beached island, a mountain perch, an almost silent lake, the sidewalks of Paris, Vienna, or among the Giant Sequoias, here in California.  But when it happens, you know it.

After about 48  hours in Rome,  I felt a sense of sinking into it, a yearn to get lost in it.  Not in the great sites, suddenly the Colosseum and the Forum jumped into the back seat, I wanted to be on a back street in a nondescript neighborhood.   I didn’t want to stand out, but quite the opposite, I wanted to blend in, fit, smear into Rome. Recognize the feeling?

Frances Mayes feels about Tuscany, as I do about Rome.  She describes it this way.  “. . . the place took hold of me and shaped me in its image.”  Exactly.

Unbelievable Dinner with Roman Friends

“I wanted an aperture, an opportunity to merge with something limitless.”  I didn’t know that I did, but boy, did I.

And finally, “  . . . something that takes you out of yourself also restores you to yourself with a greater freedom.”  This last quote touches on what many travelers who fall in love with a place refer to as ” I felt like I was home.”  I love the way that Rome swoops me out of myself, fills me to the brim, and returns a wiser, more humbled me. However, when I am in Rome and wandering, I feel small as the enormity of all that Rome has been, is and will be, surrounds me. How could I not want a repeat of that thrill ride?

Through the ages, Rome has gathered many, many lovers, I am only one, but that’s OK, I can share.   When I arrive we have such a joyous reunion, Rome is all decked out and gives me her full attention.  Below are some thoughts by a few of her other lovers:

Barbara Gruzzuti Harrison (1934-2002) – “I am happy here; when I or others have bruised my life, I close my eyes against the hurt and think of Rome: as possibility and hope. . . The world is lovable when the world is Rome. . . For the rest of my life I will love Rome and think better of my life having known Rome.”

Johann Goethe (1749-1832) – In Rome you learn to. . . . “See with an eye that can feel, feel with a hand that can see.”

Henry James (1843-1916) – At nineteen years old, “I went reeling and moaning thro’ the streets, in a fever of enjoyment.”  Fifty years later – “No one who has ever loved Rome, as Rome could be loved in youth, wants to stop loving her.”

H. V. Morton (1892-1979) – “I looked down with gratitude upon the city where I had learnt many things; but one does not say goodbye to Rome.”

Judith Testa – (During my first visit) . . .”A strange energy surged through me, a passion for the place which has never faded but only increased with each subsequent visit.  Whenever I return to Rome, I experience that same anticipation, energy, and excitement.”

Jim Quist – “I love Rome simply because it’s Italian.”

Why is Rome so magnetic?  Could it be the magnificent art, layered history, delicious food, warm Italians, winding alleys, underground shrines, alongside, or often times under, haute couture,  400 churches, one 2,000 years old?  Yes, and what about the churches, where most of the art resides?  Isn’t Rome considered the very heart of Christendom? Maybe it is the endless stories about the lives of the the artists that, through the ages, arrived in Rome from all over Italy, to contribute to its greatness in painting, architecture, sculpture, mosaic, bronze, and on and on.  The personalities, the conflicts, the rivalries.  When you know what Michelangelo said just after beginning the Moses, or how he managed to get his Pieta into St. Peter’s without permission, all while standing in front of the masterpieces, Rome elevates, moves, enriches, empowers, and becomes magnetic.

Perhaps you have never experienced a “passion blow”, and wonder how  you sink deeply into a place, and catch its spirit?  These are requisites for AHA guests, and I have never had a complaint.

• Front Loading.  Before departure, study your destination and the things that you will see.  A good travel guide can do nicely, but be sure that it has photos.  I have traveled for years without front loading, but never more.  Your knowledge will afford a wonderful feeling of familiarity and understanding upon recognition of a painting, a cafe, or street corner, that you have read about.  With a smile you can say to yourself, ” I know this place.”  Great rush.
• Pace is very important.  You cannot be rushing, so you need time in one place.  Give yourself at least four full days.  Then quietly observe everything around you, from the art to the shoe styles.  Coats, ties, skin, and faces.
• Fight the urge to make a list of must sees, that you then focus on.  When you get home, it shouldn’t be about the places that you saw, it should be about what you have learned and felt.  If your memories of Rome sound like this, ” Big bustling city, full of traffic and noise”, than you have missed it, and you should consider a return trip. Thankfully, Rome is endless, immortal and forgiving.

I will be in Rome guiding AHA’s  After twenty years, just writing those words, “I will be in Rome”, puts a smile on my face and pulls at my heart.  I would love to share it with you.

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arthisto June 3rd, 2010

Royal Hawaiian Gardens

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ALOHA CALIFORNIA

OCTOBER 15 – 22, 2011 ~ 8 DAYS ~ GROUP SIZE: 6

PRICE PER PERSON: $3,175.00

Just back from 5 gorgeous days of research and development in Honolulu. Based on my findings below, AHA will offer an itinerary called “Aloha California”  October 15-22, 2011. It will consist of 3 days in beautiful San Francisco and 4 days in Hawaii. More details on this MEW itinerary below FINDINGS.

FINDINGS:

For me, the key to Waikiki is simple, it is all about the genteel pink oasis called The Royal Hawaiian.  We approached the hotel along the very glitzy Kalakaua Avenue lined on both sides like Rodeo Drive. With Coach, Fendi, Cartier, Tiffany, Louis Vuitton, Tommy Bahama and more, all in attendance.  Carefully, our car turned right and ambled down a long driveway, leaving the shopping center far behind us.  The first thing I noticed, after the gorgeous pink stucco facade, was the quiet!  Then the orchid leis put around our necks.
The hotel has recently undergone a huge refurbish and I was so fearful that it’s old word charm and peace would somehow have been sold to the highest bidder.  Not so, not so.  The gorgeous sweeping gardens still wrap around the low slung hotel with its spacious open verandas that  insist  you sit down, unwind and let the warm Trade Winds lull you.

ITINERARY:

Chinatown Dragon, San Francisco

Day 1 through 3 will be spent in and around San Francisco.  The colorful streets of its huge Chinatown, to beautiful Union Square, a boat ride and guided tour of the haunting Alcatraz, and a walk through the enormous and majestic Redwood trees in the Muir Woods.  We will drive across the famous Golden Gate and down the “crookedest street in the world”, Lombard Street, and finish up at the Tonga Room at the Fairmont Hotel, which is really fun!

Day 4 we will catch our morning flights to gorgeous Hawaii.  Arriving at he Royal Hawaiian about lunch time, we will check into our rooms and start to really unwind.  The balance of this day is for laying around and enjoying the huge gardens.

Days 5 through 7 will be mostly pure relaxation either on the beach and in the warm water waves, around the pool, in the spa, or shopping.  One of these three days will include a trip to the world famous Polynesian Cultural Center for a day wandering among the various villages of the Polynesian peoples.  Characteristic foods, native music and dance abound.  This is my little injection of art and history into this itinerary, and it is fascinating.

Day 8 – Flights home from Hawaii.

If this sounds lovely to you, start thinking about Aloha California with AHA, October 15 – 22, 2011.

Fragrant Plumaria, Hawaii

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arthisto December 12th, 2009

Lago di Como

“My commitment to cultural immersion travel is strong. That is why I insist on research trips.  I continue seeking out sites, smells, and tastes that will envelope and enrich my AHA guests.  This is a different kind of travel, a more personal approach, with a focus on a deeper understanding of a culture other than our own.”  -Cynthia Quist

Wonderful discoveries and some dismal disappointments.  That sums up three weeks of pretty intense research in Italy for Jim and I.  We worked hard, ate a lot, and took notes on everything.  One difficult night, the only consolation that we had, as we laid awake in our two tiny twin beds in a HOT, stuffy room with a party going on outside our windows, was the knowledge that you, our guests, would never have to experience this.  On the other hand, in Sorrento, where we had booked for just two nights, everything was so perfect that we longed to extend our stay.

Our itinerary: Paris 3 days, Lake Como 3 days, Tuscany 6 days, Rome 5 days, Sorrento 2 days.

We covered a large part of that little boot, (and sometimes felt as though we had been kicked by it).  The good news is that our guests benefit from the good and the ill.  Based on our pages of notes we will create a beautiful and delicious new Italian Itinerary for 2011.  It will be a Northern Italian trip to include The Lakes region, Florence, and Northern Tuscany.  If you are interested in the new itinerary, keep your eye on this blog.

But for the present, if you are interested in a, post-battle report on our three week sojourn, here you go.

Paris Bakery

Paris: Hotel Pas du Calais remains a favorite, with its warm and welcoming staff, pretty rooms, delicious breakfast, and a perfect location on the Left Bank.

We will be adding the beautiful town and immense cathedral of Chartres to our Paris itinerary in the future.  A beautiful day trip from Paris.  We discovered new parts of Versailles to explore, and some that we weren’t supposed to be in.  Oops!

The food in Paris was a dismal disappointment, and it shouldn’t ever be that way.  We ate at all types of eateries, and found the bistros and brasseries to be most dependable.  The two star Micheline, with it’s fish foam, will surly appeal to some, but I think I lost weight in Paris.  Our favorite brasserie, is as delicious as ever and I wouldn’t miss eating there for anything.  However, the day we left Paris we felt we were fleeing the land of butter, cream, and Bordeaux wines, and were in a hurry to arrive in the land of tomatoes, olive oil, and brunello.

Lakeside lunch at the San Giorgio

Lake Como: The four star Grand Hotel Imperiale was a bit of a disappointment.  But the very peaceful Hotel San Giorgio was adorable and is calling to me this very minute.  Located on the lake with a large gently rolling lawn, dotted with lawn furniture and easing down to the lapping edge of the lake, is the place for me.  Not trying to be something it is not, it exudes character, delicious food, and a lakeside walk into the little town of Lenno.  From here you can catch a boat to other pretty towns on the banks of the lake, never having to get into a car.  All of this with the snow capped Swiss Alps looming above you.  This place was magic and I will be sure that my guests have enough time here to really let down.

We landed on four wonderful restaurants here.  The garden and terrace restaurant at the San Giorgio, where Jim swears he had the best pizza of his life and I had a beautifully presented caprese salad.  After lunch it was all we could do not to drop into one of the hotel lounges for a nap.  If we had been guests of the San Giorgio, that is exactly what we would have done, but instead we walked to Lenno and did some exploring.  Darling!

Another wonderful discovery was Trattoria Del Fagiano (guinea fowl), high up above the lake, each course in this great place was perfect.  Maria Louisa and Enza run the front, and you better clean your plate or you are going to hear about it.  Wilma is in

The Fagiano Crew

the kitchen with Chef Gabriele, who masterminds the absolutely delicious country Italian fare, and Mr. Giorgio (Wilma’s husband) runs the bar and makes the oh so important espressos.  I cannot wait to share Trattoria Del Fagiano with AHA travelers!  The Italian menu was daunting so Maria Luisa took over.  If you are interested, below is a description of what she decided we were going to enjoy at this eatery.
Antipasti: Paper thin prosciutto with shaved parmigiano cheese, sauteed mushrooms, bruschetta topped with bacon, braseola with melted mozzarella, drizzled with vinegar.  At that point, and I know that you know this feeling, I was pretty much done.  Oh no, no, no.  Primi piatti – house twisted pasta with a sauce of  light tomato and ground fagiano, plus the lightest crepe ever, oozing a bechamel sauce, rolled then sliced very thinly, smothered in fresh tomatoes and baked in the oven.  OK, now its not funny.  Remember those elastic waisted pants I bought before departure, yeah well, you can imagine where I am going with this when Maria Louisa arrives at our table with a wild boar stew served over country polenta.  Yeah, not to filling.  But hey, I told myself I was doing it all for you, the reader and traveler, it was my responsibility, right?  Jim looked across the table at me and gasped something rather negative about our food in Paris . . . .

Prosciutto on melon

A departure from the country food is the Imperialino. Very, very beautiful terrace dining, lakeside.  Service was impeccable and yet friendly, and the food was absolutely wonderful.  I just have to mention my antipasti.  I ordered Prosciutto and melon and that is what I received but the presentation was amazing.  Thin slices of cantaloupe covered the bottom of my huge plate, but someone had taken the thin prosciutto and fashioned it delicately into the shape of a rose in full bloom sitting on top.  I will look forward to sharing this quiet, elegant restaurant with guests.

And finally, La Locanda.  This place you have to experience to believe.  Located on the only island on Lake Como, we arrived by boat to a very famous, yet casual six course lunch, under a tree on the terrace.  Please!!!!  It just could not have been more perfect.  This became a must for all of the AHA trips to the Lake Como area.  Take a look at their website.  Too fun!

From Lago Di Como we headed south to Pienza, located in the heart of Tuscany for the next six days, stopping for lunch in Cremona.  Cremona is the town where Stradivari lived and created his perfect violins, now on display, and I have wanted to visit for many years.  It was not a disappointment.

Abbey of Saint Antimo, Tuscany

Tuscany:  Staying in a beautifully redesigned farmhouse on top of a hill, we relished traveling through the area at a very leisurely pace.  The high points were the 12th century Abby of Saint Antimo, where the resident Gregorian monks chant . . . .  stunning.  The beef steak restaurant, Osteria Acquacheto, so good we went twice, the town of Montepulciano, and the perfect Renaissance town of Pienza.  There were some disappointments that taught us where not to go as well.  Restaurants that are full and bustling, but without an Italian in the place.  We were in Italy, right?  Or were we in Germany or England?  Several got scratched off of our list, and that is a good thing.

Rome: Continues to amaze us and we have been visiting annually for over 20 years, with guests and on our own.  Exploration of some sites we’d not seen before proved fruitful.  The hillside town of Tivoli, just outside of Rome, with its two enormous villas will make a great addition to a week long itinerary in Rome.  This would be a day trip, out of the bustling city to visit the ancient Roman Villa Adriana, lunch and then visit the Villa ‘d’Este c. 1565.  Both have gorgeous gardens, gushing fountains, and views of Rome.  A super way to spend an easy day, I loved it there. We were disappointed with a restaurant that we have been enjoying for years, because it decided to go up market.  So, whereas their pizza and pastas were wonderful, they have been replaced with items like parmigiano mousse served with middle eastern flat bread.  What?  I am in Italy, right?  Too bad.  But, the Enoteca (wine bar) near the bottom of the Spanish Steps, and Ciampini, at the top, were just as great as ever!

Home with patio, c.79 AD - Herculaneum

Sorrento: This has become a favorite.  Perhaps the fact that  beautiful Hotel Antiche Mura pampers us is part of the reason we keep returning? Perhaps that, as well as the aqua waters lapping on the shore, the slower pace, the pirate history, the fresh seafood and icy white wines, and the limoncello?   Yeah, that’s probably it.  In Sorrento it is easy for me to wrap my guests up in history and culture.  It is a place to let down, slow down, and just be.  A must for AHA clients.

This trip we visited Herculaneum (in Italian, Ercolano) for the first time.  A seaside city destroyed by the same volcanic eruption that flattened Pompeii, in 79 AD, but smaller and better preserved.  Unlike Pompeii, in Herculaneum we found full homes that survived with their artwork still on the walls.  I was able to walk through a home in which the dining room looked out onto a garden with a patio complete with patio furniture.   I stood in the kitchen gazing out the window at the garden imagining that more than 1,930 years ago, a woman just like me, had done the same thing.  Perhaps she wondered what kind of weather they would have that day, as she watched her children play with a pet.  Suffice to say, that in Herculaneum, one could easily step back in time, and I loved it. I will look forward to sharing this experience with guests.

I began this post with my commitment to you, the AHA guest.  I hope that as you have read this article, it has become clear just how I will immerse you.  My goal is to envelope you in the people, the art, history, music, and food of the places we explore.  Complete Cultural Immersion, hope you can swim!

Happy Travels

• After Trip Report , Art and History , Destination Updates , destinations , Upcoming Trip
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