Archive for the 'Cultural Immersion' Category

A PERFECT PARISIAN DAY, By Maggie Harris

August 16th, 2012

 

A Perfect Parisian Day, by Maggie Harris, will appear as a five part series.

Maggie Harris is AHA’s research guru, and though much of her work is done staring at a computer screen, gathering information is not enough for AHA. In this series, Maggie puts her feet on the cobblestones and explores a great AHA destination, Paris. Assignment: To make her way to Musee Marmottan Monet, explore the gallery, and find a special place for AHA guests to lunch. To take copious notes to enrich and improve our travel itineraries for AHA guests! Mission accomplished.

 

 

 

 

I feel really blessed and humbled to be able to apply some of the experience from my travel adventures to the mission and vision of Art History Alive!It is a joy to use travel success )and travel disappointments) to help positively inform the AHA experience. So when Art History Alive asked that I take some time out of my work in Paris to scope some finds for them, what was my response? Oh, fine, twist my arm!

Sidewalk Breakfast, Paris

My personal challenge, on this particular day, was to truly explore, to simply take a journey. To have one destination, but to allow

myself to meander my way there and be open to detours along the way. To revisit some favorites and find some new joys as well. To figure it out without my cellphone GPS or scouring the travel books or restaurant reviews in advance. This kind of journey – slower, more aware, unrushed – is just the kind of travel that AHA boasts and often creates the most intense joy and offers the most amazing finds. This was just such a day.

 

It was not just a day in Paris, it was a gloriously gorgeous day, the kind of day that every person who dreams of going to Paris envisions. It was, afterall, April in Paris.

Lucky me to be in this city and have only one goal in mind – to visit the Musée Marmottan Monet. Somehow, on my visits to Paris, I had not yet managed to explore this gem of a museum. It boasts the largest collection of Monets in the world, as well as numerous works by other artists such as Degas, Sisley, Pisarro, Renoir, and more. I was eager to see some of Monet’s less famous pieces and particularly excited about exploring a part of Paris that I was not very familiar with.

 

A Morning Read, Jardin du Luxembourg

Ready for my day, I left my lovely hotel in the 6th arr. and set off for the metro station. Craving a café crème (just as it sounds, coffee with warm cream), I stopped at a storefront that had a serving window on the sidewalk. The pan au chocolat (chocolate croissants, essentially) was calling my name, so in celebration of being in France – and knowing I would walk it off in no time – I caved (for just 3 Euros! Take that, Starbucks!) I made a spur of the moment decision to detour up the road to the Jardin du Luxembourg so I could sit and enjoy my morning snack. I have noticed that in France one rarely sees people eating “on the run” as one does in the States. People aren’t scarfing sandwiches on the metro or gulping coffee as they juggle a briefcase and hail a cab. Any food experience is to be enjoyed. Savored. So off I went to savor!

Once inside The Luxembourg Gardens, in all its leafy, lovely serenity, I love thinking about how Victor Hugo featured the park so heavily in “Les Miserables”, Hemingway strolling through it, and reading current literature that mentions it. Should I try to grab a green chair around the large fountain area in the bright sunshine, surrounded by tulips and pansies? Should I sit on a bench along one of the shaded paths and watch the joggers and tennis players as they seized the morning in their own way? I opted for my favorite spot of all, right in front of the Medici fountain. It is romantic and mystical to me with great trees filtering lovely green dappled light while their leaves whisper overhead. Today the fountain had actually been drained, but it had no less charm than when it is full of water. I settled into a green lawn chair to enjoy my coffee, croissant, and a little bit of the novel I was reading. Two older Frenchmen played chess to my left. To my right, a quintessential French couple cuddled together on one chair (at 9am!).

After a good 25 minutes of serenity, caffeine, and chocolate, I left the gardens and headed to the metro. I was excited to get to the 16th arr. to explore and witness some great art!

 

 

 

 

FROM ROME: First Things First – Food! by Alysa Weinstein Gravina

July 18th, 2012

As soon as I am settled in my neighborhood, I have to find my stores: my macellaio (butcher) my frutto vendolo (fruit and vegetable stand), my alimentari (deli) and my forno (bakery). It is crucial to have a relationship with each and every one of these places and the people who run them. And believe me, this takes time.

I have Roberto on via Fraccassini who always has the most juicy fruits and green vegetables (some pre-cut and pre-washed), minestrone, beans, chick peas and fava, and, when in season, at least 4 types of cherry tomatoes. Something I forgot, living in the U.S. for so long, is that every food actually has a season and, for that matter, so does wine. Roberto loves America, tattoos, R&B music, and fruit and vegetables, so we have lots to talk about on my daily visits.

The alimentari was not as easy. Across the street from the fruit and vegetable stand is a wonderful family-run business. Aurelia Mocci, the granddame (nonna), runs the show even as her husband, son, and daughter man the deli counter. She takes your money and she rarely smiles. They sell all types of prepared meats, cheeses, olives, artichokes, and other vegetables in oil, as well as bread, milk, and butter. Getting more than a frown from her was the ultimate challenge. It seemed impossible until she met my son Sebastian. Then I was in! Because, as everyone knows, Italians LOVE children.

The macellaio is my favorite place. I have never been a very big meat eater, but at this particular stand in a covered market near my house, I can go crazy. They sell meatballs and meatloaf, stuffed olives, and veal and chicken cutlets that are unbelievably mouth-watering. You can also find almost every cut of every type of meat you’d ever want, and they cut it all while you wait. It goes without saying that everything is as fresh as can be or as aged as required. They are also the sweetest family. There is nothing better than being greeted by Leandro with his booming “Ciao cara,” and knowing that after all these years, I am getting not only the best of his product, but the best of his service.

The bakery, unfortunately, is not in my neighborhood, but I need an excuse to go by the Campo di Fiori (flower fields). Nothing is more fun than making the 30-minute walk from my house to the campo, passing the Pantheon and Piazza Navona along the way, for the most delicious pizza al taglio, which I eat outside the store. Then I buy some fresh bread and a crostata to take home. A perfect day!

It is not important where you have to go for the daily bread but that when you arrive you know who you are dealing with and are sure that you getting what you actually came for.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TRAVEL EXPANDS YOUR FRAME OF REFERENCE, FOREVER

April 23rd, 2012

Lake Como

Travel expands our frame of reference for the rest of our lives. We call on our frame of reference daily, without even realizing it, and the wider it is the more valuable an asset to understanding. Of course, travel is typically seen as a vacation, but it can be so much more, especially with Art History Alive.

Often wonderful and unexpected things happen while we are abroad that enlighten us. However, sometimes the impact of your adventure, the expansion of our mind, isn’t noticed until we return home.

Here are three examples that, in my opinion, illustrate the many ways in which travel expands us:

1. Our frame of reference and worldview

Remember the wave of anti-French sentiment that swept through America in 2003? Americans stopped frequenting French restaurants, stopped purchasing French products of any kind, and French Fries became Freedom Fries. It was all about the French not supporting the effort in Iraq. I was frustrated, too, but I remembered September 11, 2002, the first anniversary of that horrid day. I was in Paris, and something happened that changed my frame of reference forever toward France and the French. To read the story, click here.

Anyone who has visited Beijing has walked in and around Tiananmen Square. When we watched CNN and saw that young Chinese student defying the Chinese military tank in the square, it was powerful, but even more so for those of us who have stood in that place.

This past October, when video of the flood in Vernazza, Italy (a part of Cinque Terre) was released, it was very real to those of us who have walked those pretty streets.

2. Our rapidly evolving world market place

I need a special stainless steel hinge. I need it because the salt from the Monterey Bay, across the street from our home, eats any and all other materials. My handyman goes online and finds the hinge I need in “zinc coated” brass and wonders if it will work for me. I, in turn, go online looking for information on zinc-coated hinges. Up pops a comment from a fisherman off the coast of China. He tells me that he installed a zinc-coated hinge on his long-tail fishing boat and that it did not hold up to marine conditions. Before I thanked him for his input, I sat and stared at my computer screen for a few seconds. Wow, off the coast of China! I’ve been there. I knew where he was. The world is getting really, really small, and I want to be part of it.

3. Replacing ignorance and anxiety with understanding

On one of my trips, I realized before departure that I was facing a challenge. Signed up was a couple. The wife was so excited to be going to Italy for the

Exchanging Ideas, Rome

first and perhaps only time, but her husband seemed bored and uninterested and wondered why folks went on and on about the food in Italy when you could get good spaghetti down the street and around the corner. I sensed some fear, that was thinly veiled. The challenge: to win him over. The winner, Italy. He probably still complains about the expense of everything, but his ignorance and anxiety about this foreign place and culture dissolved when he saw, with his own eyes, that Italians were just as regular as he was, and, that there is spaghetti, and then there is spaghetti. Funny, the stereotypes we have in our heads. I think his came from Lady and the Tramp.

When we travel, all things make more sense. It is human nature to fear the unknown, so go get to know it. Grab your passport and suitcase and get up close and personal with our world. My favorite guest is an intellectually curious and enthusiastic traveler who wants to expand his/her frame of reference, forever. If that describes you, let’s go!

Go ahead and click over to our Home Page to see where we are going in 2012. Join us!

 

LIVING IN ROME, by Alysa Weinstein Gravina, AHA Correspondent

April 12th, 2012

Piazza del Popolo, Rome

They say all roads lead to Rome. In my case it is absolutely true.

No matter where I traveled or what caught my fascination, I always ended up back in Rome. The city does that to you, like it or not.

There are 10 ancient roads that go in every direction in and out of Rome. One of the most historically important roads is Via Flaminia, constructed around 220 BC. Technically, you could drive north about 5 hours, from the Piazza del Popolo, along the Via Flaminia, all the way to Rimini, arriving on the Adriatic coast of Italy, and the hometown of Federico Fellini. This is the street where I live. In 5 minutes, I can be at the Porta del Popolo standing in the piazza with thousands of other people marveling at the magic of the Egyptian Obelisk, or the beauty of the twin churches, Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto.

 

 

If I go in the other direction, in 10 minutes I will arrive at Ponte Milvio. This bridge, which was built in 206 BC, is pedestrian, and after an Italian film,

Lovers Locks, Rome

entitled “I Want You” (from 10 years ago), the lampposts are decorated with padlocks that young couples have left in honor of their love. But the tradition of “love” stretches much further back. It is said that Emperor Nero used to frequent the bridge with his lovers for certain debaucheries.

 

Being among these monuments and surrounded by a history that shapes us all, is an everyday occurrence for me, but now, being able to write about it, is giving me a chance to appreciate this gift, beyond just living it.

 

 

 

 

SOMETHING NEW: CLASSICAL MUSIC PERFORMANCES FOR AHA TRAVELERS

February 22nd, 2012

Gregorian Chants at Abbey Sant'Antimo, Tuscany

“. . . a true knowledge of the object of our affections gives greater love of it; if our knowledge is slight our love will be little or nothing . . .” Leonardo DaVinci

The object of my affection is Italy, and for twenty years I have been building a true knowledge of it. This knowledge, and subsequent love, is what I will share with you on an AHA trip, it is as simple as that.

For sometime, AHA has been trying to include more music in its travel, and now we will. We are so pleased to announce that beginning in the 2012 travel season, your chosen  itinerary will  include an optional classical music performance! With music being a huge component of any culture, what a perfect fit for AHA guests that are seeking cultural immersion. Your itinerary might include a night at the Opera in Florence, a chamber music recital in a baroque church in Paris, or Gregorian Chants in an ancient Abbey in Tuscany.  Europe is rich with the arts, and we will select something wonderful for every one of our upcoming European trips.

We are launching this new aspect of AHA travel with Musica in Tuscany, July 2012. This itinerary includes a one day music festival, four days in Tuscany and two days in Rome. While in Tuscany, we will stay at Castello di Proceno, host to the annual Convivio in Musica. As Italian music enthusiasts gather in the stone courtyard of Castello di Proceno, we, who are actually staying at the castle, will join the group for a performance of favorite opera arias, followed by a delicious buffet, complete with cold bubbling Prosecco.

Join our Musica in Tuscany group, get to know a bit of beautiful Tuscany, and top it off by spending two wonderful days in amazing Rome.

 

Part 2: ROMA – A Lifetime Is Not Enough

January 31st, 2012

 

 

Dinner For AHA, Rome

 

AHA and I will be in Rome three times in 2012. Links to the trip descriptions are below this post. Enjoy Part 2 of ROMA.

I came to Italy for the art, history, ancient architecture, scenic beauty, food, wine, hill towns, landscapes, and, loving it all, I return for Rome.

Why does one place reach out and hug you, and others simply don’t?  No one really knows, but really, who cares? It just happens. When it does, however, it is very personal and very intimate. For some, it’s a sandy- beached island, a mountain perch, an almost silent lake, the sidewalks of Paris, Vienna, or strolling the Giant Sequoias. But when it happens, you know it.

After about 48 hours in Rome, I felt a sense of sinking into it, a yearning to get lost in it. Not in the great sites necessarily. Suddenly the Colosseum and the Forum jumped into the back seat. I wanted to be on a back street in a nondescript neighborhood. I didn’t want to stand out; in fact, quite the opposite. I wanted to blend in, fit, and melt into Rome.

Frances Mayes feels about Tuscany as I do about Rome.  She describes it this way:  “The place took hold of me and shaped me in its image.”  Exactly.

“I wanted an aperture,” she writes elsewhere, “an opportunity to merge with something limitless. Something that takes you out of yourself also restores

Dinner With Our Roman Friends

you to yourself with a greater freedom.” And finally, “I wanted an aperture, an opportunity to merge with something limitless.”

This last quote touches on what many travelers who fall in love with a place often recount: “I felt like I was home.” I love the way Rome swoops me out of myself, fills me to the brim, and returns a wiser, more humbled me. And often, when wandering its tangled web of streets, I feel very small as the enormity of all that Rome has been, is, and will be, surrounds me. How could I not want a repeat of that thrill ride?

Through the ages, Rome has gathered many, many lovers, of which I am but one. When I arrive, we have such a joyous reunion. Rome is all decked out and gives me her full attention. Below are some thoughts by a few of her other lovers:

Living History In Rome

Barbara Gruzzuti Harrison (1934-2002) – “I am happy here; when I or others have bruised my life, I close my eyes against the hurt and think of Rome: as possibility and hope. . . The world is lovable when the world is Rome. . . For the rest of my life I will love Rome and think better of my life having known Rome.”

Johann Goethe (1749-1832) – In Rome you learn to. . . . “See with an eye that can feel, feel with a hand that can see.”

Henry James (1843-1916) – At nineteen years old, “I went reeling and moaning thro’ the streets, in a fever of enjoyment.”  Fifty years later – “No one who has ever loved Rome, as Rome could be loved in youth, wants to stop loving her.”

H. V. Morton (1892-1979) – “I looked down with gratitude upon the city where I had learnt many things; but one does not say goodbye to Rome.”

Judith Testa – (During my first visit) . . .”A strange energy surged through me, a passion for the place which has never faded but only increased with each subsequent visit.  Whenever I return to Rome, I experience that same anticipation, energy, and excitement.”

Jim Quist – “I love Rome simply because it’s Italian.”

AHA and I will be in Rome three times in 2012. Funny, even after twenty years, just writing those words, “I will be in Rome”, puts a smile on my face and pulls at my heart.  I would love to share it with you.

Musica in Tuscany: July 12 – 18, 2012, includes two days in Rome.

Rome and Tuscany: September 30 – October 8, 2012, includes four full days in Rome.

Roma Amor: Rome Is Love Spelled Backward: October 10 – 17, 2012, is a full week in Rome guided by Judith Testa, PhD, author of the book by the same name, and myself. A daring duo of like-minded pilgrims are we.

 

TUSCANY: Like A Hollywood Backdrop

December 15th, 2011

Abbey and Monastery, Sant Antimo , Tuscany

Almost everywhere you look in Tuscany, the view is like a backdrop, and this time, we were the movie. Spending five days in September, wandering the quiet back alleys of Sorano, moved by Gregorian Chants in this ancient abbey, and sleeping each night in a castle, we did feel as though we were in a movie. For those five days, we really “lived” in Tuscany. We woke each morning and made our own lattes in the kitchen of our castle apartment. I can smell that hot espresso bubbling right now. Add to that the hot milk and some sugar, and it’s going to be another good day.

We drove up, down, and around those pretty hills, lunched in some great new finds, and visited La Foce, again. Jim and I have found that we cannot get near La Foce without stopping in to just be there. La Foce is a gracious villa that supported several farms in the heart of Tuscany, and ended up right in the center of the World War II fighting. If the walls could talk. The story of La Foce, and all that happened there, both sad and heroic, is in a slim book entitled, War in Val d’Orcia: An Italian War Diary, 1943-1944, by Iris Origo. Signore and Signora Origo owned and lived in the villa during this time—a first hand account, to be sure. Now, the villa has apartments to book and produces some delicious olive oil, which I have in my pantry. Seems sort of extravagant that we do our olive oil shopping in Italy, but we do.

Our anchor in Tuscany is Castello di Proceno. Such a precious place owned by a wonderful couple that we love. Built in the 11th century, acquired by the ancestors of the current owners in the 15th century, the castle is decorated not just with antiques but with Etruscan antiquities, unearthed on the property, dating back to 700 BC.

Up on a rocky spur, this castle fortress has defended the tiny town of Proceno for centuries. Located just up the hill from what for hundreds of years was the main road from Florence to Rome, and from the Catholic pilgrimage route from Germany to Rome, the Americans and Germans also occupied Castello di Proceno in turn, during World War II. The art and history in this place lives, which is why Jim and I return year after year, and this castle is the perfect place for Art History Alive guests to stay.

No trip to Tuscany would be complete without lunch at the outrageous Osteria Acquacheta in Montepulciano. No vegetarians allowed! This is a steakhouse, Italian style. The owner, who carries a rather bloody meat cleaver in his belt, draws a diagram of a steak on your paper tablecloth and asks (forcefully) if you want the whole (that would be the porterhouse cut) or a smaller piece, the NY. You point, and he clomps off to his huge butcher’s block placed in front of a roaring fireplace in the back. Whack, whack! A huge steak is slapped on a piece of butcher paper, weighed, and brought to your table for approval. Our steak was the size of a newborn, no kidding. If you like what you see, you nod, he calculates the cost, again on the handy paper tablecloth, you nod again, and off it goes to the fireplace. The rareness of the still-sizzling steak upon delivery to your table indicates that it has not spent much time on the grate, but WOW, is it delicious! This place is a must for meat eaters. It is loud, raucous, the staff is great, and you make friends with the people at the table 3” from yours. Really, really fun!

Orvieto, just 45 minutes from the castello, is such a big, beautiful hill town. I love everything about it, because it has everything. A fantastic cathedral with breathtaking art and history, winding streets with fun shopping, delicious hidden restaurants, and amazing people watching. The more I visit, the more I love it.

AHA  will be in Tuscany twice in 2012. July 12-18, we will share an Italian music festival at Castello di Proceno, with a very small group of guests, Musica in Tuscany, a Castle Courtyard Concert. And again, September 30 – October 8, with Rome and Tuscany, a Colosseum and a Castle. If you want to know Tuscany, these two itineraries were designed to accomplish just that. In fact, all of our itineraries are created with one thing in mind, getting to really know your destination.

After five leisurely days of just “being” in Tuscany, we are packing and girding ourselves for the upcoming five days in our very favorite, Rome! After Tuscany, it can be a shock to your system. But we will be there on a Sunday, so we are planning to gather with thousands in St. Peter’s Square to see and hear Pope Benedict. We have done this many times over the years, and there is something very special about it.

I will post about our time in Rome in the New Year. It was FANTASTIC.

UGLY AMERICAN ALERT: After our lunch at Aquacheta and an afternoon ramble around picturesque Montepulciano, we were headed back to our car

Steak for two, Acquacheta

about 6PM. Our route took us past the now-closed Aquacheta. Standing in front, trying to peer in the windows, was a very American couple with a computer printout in hand. We were the only other
folks on the street so, in apparent desperation, they looked at us with frustration.

Jim says: “Great restaurant! Delicious! You’ll love it,” and keeps moving.
Woman: (In a whine) “Yes, we’ve heard about it, but it isn’t open.”
Jim: “No, it will open about 7:30 for dinner.”
Man: (Angrily) “If it is so good, why isn’t it open at dinnertime?!”

Cyndie: Walking away, a little ashamed and shaking head.

It was 6PM, he was hungry, and they walked away to find some place, any place that was open. I guess he thought he was still in the states where dinnertime is dinnertime.

TRAVEL TIP: In Italy, the only people in a restaurant having dinner before 8PM are either Americans or Canadians. By grabbing a piece of pizza or a gelato around 4PM, you’ll be hungry when the restaurants are hopping Italian-style.

New Friends, Estela and Gianni, Acquacheta

BACK FROM ITALY: VACATION, VOCATION, WHAT’S THE DIFF?

October 24th, 2011

Two Hidden Restaurants, Tuscany

After our last research trip to Italy, I wrote a post entitled, “Wonderful Discoveries and Dismal Disappointments.”  Not so this time—it was all good!

We planned this trip as a working vacation with concentration on three of our favorite spots in Italy. We stayed in each for five days, determined to stay long enough to unpack, settle in, and catch the spirit of the place, which is just what we did.
With five days on the edge of Lake Como, five more at Castello di Proceno in southern-most Tuscany, and five more in our favorite, Rome, we had a wonderful and relaxing time as we explored historic villas and their gardens, rediscovered beautiful hill towns, and visited favorite places that still  move us. We ate in dozens of delicious restaurants, and had tours of some of the most beautiful, historic, and hidden hotels ever.
Before I go any further, I must thank our researcher, Maggie McKenny-Harris, for the list of hotels and restaurants that she painstakingly compiled after, what must ave been, hours and hours of research and interviews. After trying just two of her suggestions, I knew that I was armed with something very, very valuable indeed. Maggie had us in places I would never have found on my own—quaint, characteristic, historic, family-owned, and always, always lovely. Our guests will be so very thrilled with the amazing hotels and incredible restaurants that have now been added to the AHA list. After a little bounce on the beds, I touch the sheets and pillows, I am all over the bathrooms, into the breakfast rooms, and up on the rooftops. After each new find, we toasted Maggie, and I can’t wait to return to these places myself.  Thank you, Maggie, for finding these beautiful little boutique, out-of-the-way spots that our guests will love.
I will post again soon on our lazy time on the edge of Lago di Como, and, for those who will travel there with us, what you have to look forward to. I will follow with a post on Tuscany, our castle, and the upcoming Music Festival trip July 12 – 18, 2012, and the Tuscany Rome trip September 30-October 8, 2012, and finish the series with a post on what is in store for our travelers to Rome, both in September and Rome, October 10-17, 2012.

If you are curious as to what we found by following the primitive signs in the photo above, it was no big deal, just lunch in an Etruscan cave, circa 700 BC! Everything tastes better in a place like this, and welcome to cultural immersion. Thank you, Maggie!

Until we are there again, it is nice to be home, but I can still feel those warm cobblestones under my feet.
Cynthia

Lunch in an Etruscan cave, circa 700 BC

 

ANNOUNCING THE AHA TOURS FOR 2012

September 1st, 2011

I Am Passionate About What I Do

Here are the deeply cultural, and beautiful tours that AHA will guide in 2012.  Lot’s of choices and gorgeous destinations.  This year we have deeper discounts for returning guests, early applications, and for bringing a friend.  Check out the Discounts page.  And don’t forget, a group of 4-6 friends or family that apply as a group, for any of the trips below, receive a private tour.

AHA is all about cultural immersion travel, and we love it when our guests return home enriched.  So, which culture would you like to take a dip into?

1. GOLD RUSH WINES AND YOSEMITE  April 19-26, 2012

2.  SARDEGNA: ANCIENT, WILD, SPECTACULAR, May 22-28, 2012

3.  PARIS 201: BEYOND THE EIFFEL TOWER, May 30 – June 5, 2012

4.  MUSICA IN TUSCANY: A CASTLE COURTYARD CONCERT, HILL TOWNS AND ROME, July 2012

5.  GERMANY: CASTLES, CATHEDRALS and a CONCENTRATION CAMP, October 1-8, 2012

 

6.  ROME AND TUSCANY: A COLOSSEUM AND A CASTLE, September 30 – October 8, 2012

7.  ROMA AMOR -  ROME IS LOVE SPELLED BACKWARD:  JUDITH TESTA BRINGS HER BOOK TO LIFE, October 10-17, 2012

A WORD ON WHAT’S NEW FOR 2012:

SARDEGNA – May 22-28, 2012

Hauntingly Beautiful Tuscany

This large island off the west coast of Italy has been a vacation favorite with Italians for eons.  The colorful grottoes, beautiful beaches, and unique history, a result of being located along the high traffic seaway of conquering civilizations through the centuries, makes Sardegna a culture in which you want to immerse yourself.

MUSICA IN TUSCANY - July 2012

AHA’s first summer tour!  Not only will we attend a music festival held in the courtyard of an 11th-century Italian castle, we will stay there as well.  This itinerary will also include meandering through some of the nearby hill towns of Tuscany, enjoying the cuisine and wines that this area is famous for, and it will end with two days in Rome.  Here is a perfect trip for the educators, administrators, and summer vacationers that have asked for a summer trip.  I was listening and look forward to sharing Tuscany and Rome with you.

GERMANY: CASTLES, CATHEDRALS and a CONCENTRATION CAMP, October 1-8, 2012

This trip will begin in the wine country of Bavaria and end in the mountains outside of Munich, Germany.  We will travel the gorgeous “Romantic Road” watching the hilltop castles go by, stopping along the way to explore and “get into” Germany.  But, by way of balance, we will also include, an important piece of history. We will visit Dachau, the infamous concentration camp museum, and Nurnberg.  This is an outstanding art history itinerary, with both treasures and tragedy.

ROMA AMOR: ROME IS LOVE SPELLED BACKWARD – October 10-17, 2012

This tour, focusing on Rome and Rome alone, will be based on my favorite book on the Eternal City, Rome is Love Spelled Backward. And amazingly, for the fortunate guests that sign on, the author, Judith Testa, will guide this tour!  I will be there, too, listening and learning from AHA’s own art history consultant and professor, as she deftly paints, for us, a picture of ancient Rome.  How fortunate are we!

TRIP #2 – ITALY’S SARDEGNA: ANCIENT, WILD, SPECTACULAR, by Gillian Seely

August 30th, 2011

 

May 22 – 28, 2012 ~ 7 Days ~ Group Size: 6

Price: $3,100.00

AHA is so pleased to have Gillian Seely on board to guide this deeply cultural adventure to her loved Sardegna.  An effervescent and bright young woman who loves AHA as I do, whomever travels with her to Italy will have a wonderful and rich time.  I will be joining this trip, my first to Sardegna, so am looking forward to learning all about this island right along side of you.

Why Sardegna?  By Gillian Seely

In 2006, I went with a friend to the French island of Corsica for a long weekend.  It was stunning, peaceful, and vibrant in a bizarre and serene way that is unique to the Mediterranean, but it was missing something.  Admittedly an Italophile, I wasn’t really satisfied.  “I want my seafood mixed in with al dente linguine”, and “Why aren’t people yelling at each other in heated conversation over dinner?” I whined (in my head, of course).  The island immediately to the south beckoned.  I wanted to go to Sardegna—to see the same kind of island, but, in my mind, the improved version.  Improved simply by virtue of having been inhabited by the fiery and beautiful Italians with whom I am so obsessed.  We didn’t have time.

In the summer of 2010, several years after moving stateside, I did go back to the Mediterranean, and finally, to Sardegna.  It exceeded my expectations, and now I have been honored with the opportunity to lead an Art History Alive trip to this incredible and unforgettable island.

What can you expect to experience on an AHA trip to Sardegna?  Without paraphrasing the itinerary, here’s a look at the cultural highlights that make this one of my favorite destinations:
The Language: “Lingua Sarda”, “Sardu”, or “Limba Sarda”.  A beautiful and musical language that is Italian in essence, but is completely different– as any Italian will readily admit.  The language is said to “feature archaic phonetic features when compared to other Romance languages”.  It is believed to have been influenced by Illyrian, Etruscan, and even the Basque language.   The root of “sard” is said to have come from the “Sherden”, one of the so-called “Peoples of the Sea”.  I’m not a linguist, but it is noticeably different from the Italian I have studied, and for me, listening to Sardu makes me feel like I’m eavesdropping on something ancient and mysterious.

Sardinian “Music Bread”

The Food: Expect to taste authentically-regional island cuisine that comes straight from the sea and the land…really!  You’ll find very few gimmicky “spaghetti Bolognese” set menus here.  Save for a few major grocery chains that import from the continent, the island heavily utilizes its own resources– from seafood to locally-grown produce, and grapes that make unique and flavorful wines.  And the locals are very proud of this point, as you might imagine.  Some delicacies of the island include “pane carasu” or “music bread”, a flat, tortilla-like accompaniment to many main courses; and “fregula”, a pasta of Moorish origin that resembles couscous.  Everything is unique and flavorful!

The Music: Cantu a Tenore is an ancient form of polyphonic “throat singing” that has put the island on the map, musically.  According to some historians, the practice of singing in this style dates back to the Nuragic civilization (we’ll learn all about them on this trip).  Some speculate that the deeply-primitive and almost Moorish sounds were intended to mimic the sounds of the sheep.  The Nuragic people were shepherds.

Nuraghe Dwelling

The Sites: We will see the Nuraghe dwellings, and the Domus de Janas (literally, “houses of the fairies”).  These are strange, prehistoric, beehive-like structures, believed to have been inhabited by the semi-nomadic Sardegnan people.  We will also see the breathtaking Grotto di Nettuno (Neptune’s Grotto), a massive system of coastal caverns filled with intense geological features.  This is one of the most visually-appealing stalactite caves in Europe, and the approach by boat is dramatic to say the least.

Coast of Sardinia

The Beaches: White sands, blue water with excellent visibility, and countless opportunities for snorkeling, kayaking, and swimming in refreshing waters.  Sure, this isn’t the main thrust of the trip, but these beaches are to die for.

Tempted yet?  Sardegna isn’t for everyone.  It does not offer bustling urban nightlife, well-managed museums, high-end shopping districts, or high-profile Roman ruins.  It can be challenging to get around, the residents are uncommonly conservative, and tourism is relatively new to the island.  It is, however, a wonderful place for an authentic Mediterranean adventure and deeply cultural experience.   Think of Sardegna as Italy’s unruly, wild, but stunningly-beautiful cousin.

D.H. Lawrence said it best:

“Sardinia, which is like nowhere. Sardinia, which has no history, no date, no race, no offering. Let it be Sardinia. They say neither Romans nor Phoenicians, Greeks nor Arabs ever subdued Sardinia. It lies out- side; outside the circuit of civilisation. Like the Basque lands. Sure enough, it is Italian now, with its railways and its motor-omnibuses. But there is an uncaptured Sardinia still. It lies within the net of this European civilisation, but it isn’t landed yet…Let it be Sardinia.”

Flag of Sardegna

Next »