Art History Alive

arthisto February 16th, 2010

Steak Frites in Paris and Now in NYC

Hello Everyone,

A good friend who visited Paris with me many years ago, recently sent an article published in The New Yorker, February 8, 2010, page 12.   I am very happy tosay that Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecote opened its doors in NYC.  This fifty year old Parisian restaurant is a stand out favorite of AHA’s, and if you have traveled to Paris with me in the last fifteen years, this is where you dined your first night.  Absolutely famous for the one thing that it serves up to hungry diners every night, are the steak frites, smothered in a secret sauce that makes ones knees go weak. Starting to come back?  Ringing any bells?  Drooling yet?  Many of you have begged me to return to L’Entrecote for a second meal before the trip home, which I am always happy to do.  Not only have all of my guests experienced L’Enrecote, but over the years, we have recommended it to anyone on their way to the City of Light.  And even though they serve just one prix fixe entree, preceded by a small but good salad, and some crunchy butterless bread, all for $24.00, they offer no less than ten to twelve desserts, for a few dollars more.  The most famous being Profiteroles, and  my favorite, the Berry Tulip. (photos below)

For years people have tried to recreate this fabulous savory sauce by first guessing its ingredients.  Many fun AHA evenings have been spent in Paris around a table at L’Entrecote as my guests and I try our hardest to figure it out.

Some years back a friend and wonderful cook, Katie McKenny, decided she thought she had it.  A few weeks after returning home I received her recipe for what she called “Cyndie’s First Night In Paris Secret Sauce”.  I have made this sauce many times, usually by request (or demand), and it is very, very close.  In fact, the recipe is barely legible for the splatter stains.  I thought it would be fun to post Katie’s recipe here, and hope that the next blog photo you see of me will NOT be in handcuffs, being lead away by the Haute Cuisine police.

Have fun with this and let me know if you think Katie got it!

Cyndie’s First Night In Paris Secret Sauce

By Katie McKenny

Profiteroles ala L'Entrecote

1       Tablespoon Olive Oil

3/4    teaspoon turmeric

4       3″ pieces of lemon grass

1/2    teaspoon chili powder

1       can coconut milk

3       cloves garlic, minced

1/2     teaspoon fresh ginger root, grated

1/2     teaspoon salt and some freshly ground pepper

1/3     cup red wine

meat juices

In the hot oil, cook lemon grass, ginger, turmeric, garlic, and chili powder for about 6 minutes, stirring.

Add coconut milk, mix well and simmer very slowly to thicken, about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Remove lemon grass.  Taste and adjust.

Just before serving add wine and the meat juices after you have sliced the meat.

For more information on the new Le Relais De Venise L’Entrcote in NYC visit: http://www.yelp.com/biz/le-relais-de-venise-lentrecote-new-york

The Berry Tulip ala L'Entrecote

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arthisto January 28th, 2010

Vittoria

I would like you to meet my friend Vittoria.  As you can see she has lived a long life, and all of it in tiny, Civita de Bagnoregio.  All of her life, that is, except for a short time during, and just after WWII, and this is her story.

The population of Civita di Bagnoregio ranges anywhere from 15 to 75, depending on the season, and Vittoria is one of the 15.  Many of you have visited this most haunting of hill towns, either with me, for I NEVER visit Tuscany/Lazio without walking the cobblestone streets of Civita, or on your own.  And if you did it on your own, congratulations!  One has to REALLY want to go there to be determined enough to find it, all tucked away in her hills.  But, as you approach, she rises up on her tufa throne, and sits majestically, albeit precariously, right up on top.  An amazing sight.

Civita de Bagnoregio dates back 3,000 years, to before the Etruscan civilization, which pre-dates the Romans.  Now, as interesting as this “City of Dead” is, and how it got its name, this story is about Vittoria.  The story that she related to me one sunny afternoon, was that of her memories of World War II in her little town when she was 22 years old.

She began by explaining that around 1943, Civita di Bagnoregio was a bit larger than it is now, and that the concrete and steel bridge

Civita di Bagnoregio with its Bridge

that spans the surrounding chasm, the only artery to the arched entrance gate of Civita, is a handsome one, but not the one that she grew up with.  The old stone bridge that she referred to was wide enough for people to pass a donkey cart as they hiked from Civita to the larger town of Bagnoregio, located across the very deep canyon.  Vittoria told me that the people of Civita would cross the bridge to shop for what they needed, because their tiny town had very little in the way of shops.  Stopping along the way to visit with their neighbors, the bridge was a lifeline to the outside world.

The bridge is 900 feet in length, is rather steep and takes about 15 minutes to walk.

Toward the end of the WWII, when the Germans were being ordered to retreat north to Germany, the bombing in Tuscany and Lazio intensified.  Vittoria remembers the sounds of the planes flying so close that even as she tells me the story, she briefly covers her ears.  With bombs dropping within earshot, as the Allies were attempting to blow up the train lines thereby hindering the retreating Germans, a bomb destroyed the bridge connecting Civita to the rest of the world.

Civita di Bagnoregio

Fleeing their homes on top of the hill, where they felt exposed and vulnerable, the small band of citizens huddled together in an Etruscan cave built into the rock and under the town.  For many, many days, as they listened to the planes overhead, they stayed hidden, afraid to venture back to town and afraid of the destruction that they might encounter.  Vittoria cannot remember exactly how long they were in the cave before food and water became a determining factor in the creation of a plan.  She told me that the group decided that they had to try and get to their big sister, Bagnoregio for help.  Of course, with the bridge out, they had to find another way.  She explained that there was local knowledge of the old Etruscan walking routes, and after some exploration, they attempted the hike.  Even the elderly had to make the crossing, no one could be left behind.

One of Vittoria’s clearest memories, and she smiled as she described it, was climbing up to Bagnoregio and the people at the top extending their hands to pull the small band up and out of the valley that separated them.   The people of Bagnoregio took them in and shared what little they had.  Vittoria’s memory of time is unclear, but she simply said that they were in Bagnoregio for a very long time, and until the new stone bridge was complete.  Vittoria’s family chose to return to Civita, even though many of their neighbors did not.  The population of the little town decreased considerably and through the years was dubbed the “City of the Dead”.  As I mentioned above, the population of Civita has been as low as 15, but now swells to 75, with up to 200 day trippers on a summer weekend ( I avoid summer weekends at all costs).  Wealthy Romans have bought up many of the houses, still left in tact, as vacation homes, and, like Vittoria, a few of the elderly inhabitants remain.

Bruschetta Cave, Civita di Bagnoregio

The bridge, which is a vitally important component in the life of Civita, was again destroyed in 1964 by an earthquake, very prevalent in this area.  The concrete and steel bridge that we walk on today, to make our way to Vittoria, is yet another replacement.

Needless to say, Civita is a favorite of mine, and so I happily guide my guests across the bridge and into the town where this and other stories are told over crunchy bruschetta toasted in a fireplace, washed down with a glass of wine, all while sitting in a cave.  This is Cultural Immersion Travel.

June 2010 will find AHA in Tuscany and Rome.  Civita di Bagnoregio will be on the itinerary.

Tips on visiting Civita di Bagnoregio:

• During the summer months avoid the weekends!
• Wear very comfortable clothes and shoes.  The walk is a hefty one, takes 15 to 20 minutes, but is so worth it!
• To get to my favorite Bruschetteria Antico Frantoio, with the entrance gate to your back, walk down the only main street.  The Cathedral will be on your left as you enter the Piazza.  Continue on the same street to the Bruschetteria on your left with a small courtyard in front.  Enjoy!
• Watch for Vittoria as she often sits in the sun across from the Bruschetteria.
• To arrive at the Etruscan caves where Vittoria hid, continue down the main street to the end of town (opposite end from where you entered).  There you will find some steps down, just follow them.
• A helpful link for planning a visit.

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arthisto November 5th, 2009

Civita de Bagnoregio

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ITALY – TUSCANY and ROME
JUNE 11 – 19, 2011 ~ 9 DAYS ~ GROUP SIZE: 6
PRICE PER PERSON: $3,600.00

NOTE: Below is a good example of just what travel is like with ART HISTORY ALIVE. If you find that this post does not pique your interest, then you may not be a good fit for AHA, but if you begin reading and find yourself wanting to read and learn more, it is ten times better when we are there.  Cynthia

After arriving in Rome and having our first cappuccino in Italy together, we will gather into our spacious, panoramic-windowed van and travel toward the tiny hill town of Proceno, in southern Tuscany. However, on our way, we will drive up a hill to soaring Orvieto for a delicious lunch and the first of many an awe inspiring wander. No one actually knows the age of Orvieto, however we do know that around 750 B.C. the Etruscans thrived here, Continue Reading »

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arthisto June 11th, 2008

So, you are off to Tuscany to lay your head down in a real honest to goodness castle. What is a Tuscan castle like, you might ask? Well, they range from absolutely decadent to rather cold, austere, and fortress like. However, Castello di Proceno, our very favorite, is a classic example of Italian ingenuity, tasteful rejuvenation, and rebirth as a warm and welcoming hostelry, thanks to Cecilia, Giovanni, and Carlo Bisoni. From our first guided tour of the castello, it’s gardens, and apartments, I thought I was on the set of “Enchanted April”.

The Castello, perched high on a spur overlooking the countryside, was built in the 12th century and has been reinvented over the centuries as needed. It has been a castle and defending fortress which protected the inhabitants of the town, a family gathering place for centuries, and during WWII, because of its strategic location near the main road between Rome and Florence, it was occupied by Germans and Americans alike. Since then, it has been divided into lovely apartments, each one unique with beautiful countryside views of Tuscany and Lazio. Our Castello, where we have been staying with happy clients for a decade, is a 3 star accommodation in a 5 star setting, and we love it!

The beds are comfy, the pillows can be lumpy, but having said that, we sleep very well. The towels, that you use more than once, are of the waffle design, and you provide your own soap. The apartments are warm, dry, pretty, and made primarily of stone. The little kitchen corners provide espresso pots and tea kettles to boil water for tea or instant American coffee. They include a small refrigerator and a gas stove as well. Actually the kitchens are equipped for guests to make full meals and serve small groups, and we sometimes do. It is so fun, on an evening, to all gather in one of the larger apartments for local wines, cheeses, and perfectly crunchy bruschetta made in the apartment fireplace. We follow that with a big bowl of pasta slathered in olive oil and freshly grated parmigiano and loaded with a variety of sauteed vegetables and a big salad. Coffee, cookies, and limoncello to finish and we have all enjoyed each others company. If you are curious, use the comment box at the bottom of this page to ask me about the dark Sunday evening I ended up at the castle, with no restaurants open, no vehicle, and eight unsuspecting clients hungry for dinner. Necessity is the mother of invention and flexibility is the key.

That brings me to my next point. There is a great little grocery store across the one and only street in Proceno, owned by our friend, Roberto. Here you can buy the makings of a feast as well as milk for your coffee, a variety of juices, the local wines, cheeses, salami, and fruits. Actually, he has everything. On one trip I had forgotten a crucial tool of the trade, my alarm clock. No problem for Roberto. He disappeared for a few moments and returned to save the day. On another occasion a client, actually my dad, was thrilled to find a lovely pair of slippers for himself there, and is still enjoying them to this day. An amazing little place that is more of a grocery/green grocer/department store, who’s proprietor, Roberto, is delightful to boot. Can’t decide on a cheese? No problem, taste them all. Fall in love with one? No problem, Robert will vacuum pack it for you to take home with you.

Optional items to pack for castle hopping:

Small pillow
Slippers, for the stone floors.
Two small bars of soap, trial size are perfect.
Coffee or tea (I bring a zip lock bag of my favorite espresso and one of sugar.)
A flattened bag at the bottom of your suitcase to be used as a carry on later for the cheese and wine you will most probably collect along the way.
Be sure to include any, and all of you medications that you might need. Medicines are a bit different in a foreign country and a vacation is not a good time to experiment. Include you favorite cold and allergy meds.

Can’t wait to hug Roberto again, he is my hero!

Ciao,

Cynthia

PS  Use the comment box below to send me your comments and suggestions.  Have you subscribed yet?

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