arthisto August 30th, 2011

Beautiful Nurnburg, Germany

OCTOBER 1-8, 2012 ~ 8 DAYS ~ GROUP SIZE: 6-8

PRICE: $3,300.00

CASTLES, CATHEDRALS AND A CONCENTRATION CAMP

On this trip, we will stop at various points along the fabled Romantic Road of Germany.  We will begin at the northern end of the road, in the medieval city of Wurzburg, which is situated along the Main River and was once an important stop along the Spice Road.  In fact, the name Wurzburg means “Spice City”, and the influence of this mercantile history upon the region is felt in the quaint marketplaces and cobbled streets. We will visit the Wurzburg Residenz, a large and elaborate Rococo palace that is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and its accompanying gardens.  We will enjoy a white wine tasting at the city’s stately wine cellar (northern Bavaria, known as Franconia, boasts some of the world’s best white wines). Still in Wurzburg, we will go to a medieval fortress on a hill that overlooks the city and explore its grounds and the nearby monastery, staying at the beautiful Hotel Maritim on the Main River through rolling vineyard country.

Wuerzburg Residenz

Moving south, we will enjoy some time in Rothenburg, a world-famous medieval fortress town in northern Bavaria, renowned for its city walls (which can be traversed, and from which you can see the rolling hills for miles around), and for its quaint central square, historical artisan shops, and restaurants—this is a great place for picking up Bavarian souvenirs skillfully made from wood and glass.

Later we will visit Nurnberg, seeing the beautiful central square of the city.  We will explore the Toy Museum (Nurnberg is known for its toy manufacturing,  particularly around Christmas time), and visiting the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Germans aren’t known for linguistic brevity), a somber, but enlightening World War II museum at the site of the Nazi Party’s rallying grounds.

Fairytale Castle, Neuschwanstein

Moving south from Nurnberg, we will visit Munich—site of the world-famous Hofbrauhaus, and the Marienplatz—home of the dancing glockenspiel.  There will be an optional excursion from Munich to the nearby site of the Dachau concentration camp. While this excursion isn’t for everybody, a trip to the site gives unparalleled insight into the lives and deaths of the millions of prisoners who fell victim to the Nazi mentality, and provides a good way to come to terms with the contrasts between the Germany of then and of now.

Leaving Munich, we will visit Neuschwanstein Castle—the “Cindarella Castle” that has come to be a symbol of Bavaria.  Nestled at the foot of the German Alps, a tour of this massive  and iconic castle lets you learn about “Mad King Ludwig” and soak up some regional history.

Our last stop will be in Garmisch Partenkirchen, a stunning mountain town on the Austrian border, and at the end of the Romantic Road.  GAP, as it’s

Munich, Germany

known by locals, is a high-end ski resort in the winter, and a quaint place for hiking and Bavarian-style outdoor activities in the summer.  The views in GAP alone make it perhaps the most beautiful part of the trip.  The trip will end here, and direct trains to Munich run every hour from the GAP station, making airport access very convenient, or alternative transportation can easily be arranged.

This trip will give you an appreciation of the culture of Germany, and specifically of Bavaria.  We will eat delicious and hearty German cuisine, travel along the high-speed and world-famous autobahns, see the stunning countryside, and learn all about the culture of Germany in the middle ages, during the European Renaissance, and World War II…and, importantly, we will come to love and understand the Germany of today!

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arthisto August 30th, 2011

Evening in the Roman Forum

ITALY – ROME AND TUSCANY: A Colosseum and a Castle
SEPTEMBER 30 – OCTOBER 8, 2012 ~ 9 DAYS ~ GROUP SIZE: 6 – 8
PRICE PER PERSON: $3,900.00

NOTE: Below is a good example of just what travel is like with ART HISTORY ALIVE. If you find that this post does not pique your interest, then you may not be a good fit for AHA, but if you begin reading and find yourself wanting to read and learn more, it is ten times better when we are there.  Cynthia

Eventually, all roads should lead to the awesome city of Rome at least once in a lifetime. Jim and I have traveled far and wide in this world, but since our discovery of Italy in 1987, we return every chance we get. And in all of that little boot, Rome has the strongest draw for us.  Cumulatively, we have spent over 4 months in that city, and still we keep going back. Of everywhere we have been, Rome holds for us the richest and most stimulating bounty of art, history, architecture (which is an art), and culture, hands down.  And the people . . . . . . . !

• Why did Michelangelo sign only one piece of art and which one was it?
• Why is the almost 2000 year-old Pantheon in such perfect condition when buildings in the Forum of the same age are rubble?
• Why is St. Peter’s Basilica the most popular church in Rome, and the world, when Rome’s St. John Lateran was the first Christian church to be built?
• Where is the white travertine exterior that once covered the Colosseum walls?
• Where are the gilded bronze tiles that once covered the roof of the Pantheon?
• What did the terms Middle Ages and Dark Ages describe?

On warm evenings we will sit in outside cafés on cobblestone alleys and watch the most interesting people in the world stroll by. We will shop, rest and overall, catch the Spirit of Rome which, you will want to take home with you.

Next it is off to the hills of Tuscany in our spacious, panoramic-windowed van toward the tiny hill town of Proceno, in southern Tuscany. However, on our way, we will drive up a hill to soaring Orvieto for a delicious lunch and the first of many an awe inspiring wander. No one actually knows the age of Orvieto, however we do know that around 750 B.C. the Etruscans thrived here, inheriting it from their Iron and Bronze Age ancestors. How exciting it is to visit a city that has survived for thousands of years, with its bustle interrupted only once, in the 14th century, by the Black Plague.  We will meander at our own pace through Orvieto‘s crown jewel, her Cathedral, with its brightly colored mosaic facade. Built over a mere 300 years, it holds precious art that I love to visit and share.

Forty minutes deeper into beautiful Tuscany and we will arrive at Castello di Proceno. This castle/fortress was built in the 11th century and has been creatively redesigned into several beautiful apartments. This is my favorite landing spot in all of Tuscany.

Once we check in and relax a bit, we will take a walk around town so that you can get your bearings. It isn’t difficult as it is tiny, but the views, in all directions are dreamlike, no, actually they are “calendarlike“. I will introduce you to Pucci and Giovanni, the owners of the castle, Roberto the grocer, where you can buy anything from locally made salami, to bedroom slippers, and Gianfranco, of Trattoria da Gianfranco. The castle will be our home for the next four days as we explore more picturesque hill towns and savor some of the most delicious food and wine you will have ever tasted.

On the list of must sees, in these first four days, are the cathedral of Sovana, that took so long to build that it actually spans two architectural periods. So, as we sit in the back of the church you will see that two of its three aisles are Romanesque and the third is Gothic. Amazing! The hill town hamlet of Pienza that was, luckily for us, caught in a time warp. During the first half of the 1400′s, Pope Pius II, responsible for the revitalization and redesigning of his beloved hometown, was called away to raise troops for a crusade to the Holy Land. He left a Papal Bull, in beautiful Latin, that stated nothing should be touched until his return. Unfortunately, in 1465 he died while away, and Pienza dutifully has left everything just as it was. Because of this, a visit to Pienza gives us a real time snapshot of Tuscan life in the 1400′s. Pienza was miraculously spared during World War II bombing raids, however the machine gun holes in the exterior side wall of the cathedral are a reminder of what happened here when both Germans and Americans took turns occupying Pienza and the surrounding towns. This is a fascinating area with lots to explore, learn and taste. Brunellos come from this region, as does a most delicious soft, not salty, pecorino cheese.

And who can be in this area and not visit the most haunting of all hill towns, Civita di Bagnoregio?

Not me! Civita sits a top a rock spur, built entirely of rock taken from the spur, it appears to be something organic that simply grew out of the mountain. However, because of earthquakes over the centuries much of the spur and city have dropped away, leaving Civita sitting like a diamond nestled in a round solitaire setting. There is one approach to the city, a walking bridge that spans the gorge that encircles Civita.

Often, in the morning, the city is engulfed in clouds or fog and it appears that the bridge leads to no where. Sometimes the fog fills just the gorge with Civita above as if floating in the sky. This is like nothing else you would have seen up to this point, and you will remember it always. Comfortable walking shoes, a camera, and a hefty appetite are a must for Civita da Bagnoregio.

Following our explorations of Tuscany we will say good bye to our castle and new friends, and head for Rome and flights home.

Physical Level: Moderate

Art History Alive will offer seven destinations in 2012! Great places to visit, more interesting things to learn, and very small groups. Over the next few weeks I will post a list of recommended reading and movies, destination specific, that will allow you to front load your travel experience.

You will notice that we have added an itinerary that includes my absolute favorite places in California.  If Europe is not on

your radar screen for this year, consider touring the best that California has to offer.  I am a fifth generation Californian and would love to show you around.  I think that you will agree, this is wonderful line up and I sincerely hope that you will share it with your friends and family.

We are very happy to announce:

• Early booking benefits
• Alumni discounts
• Refundable deposits

The NEW money saving opportunities are on the Specials and Discounts Page. These trips can fill up fast so early booking is important and saves you money.

All trips include: Hotels, all meals and house wines, (well, you don’t have to have wine with breakfast) ground transportation, museum admissions, and travel insurance.

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arthisto August 26th, 2011

Judith Testa At Her Best

October 10 – 17, 2012 ~ 8 Days ~ Group Size: 6 – 8

Price: $4,100.00

We are so very fortunate to have Judith Testa, in person, bringing her book to life in her beloved Rome.  I will be among the lucky travelers that will make up this group, as we gather around this fun and funny font of knowledge, and become friends.

Following post by Judith Testa:

There’s a saying, “Roma, non basta una vita,” which means “Rome, a lifetime is not enough.” But even if you don’t have a lifetime to devote to exploring the Eternal City, you can see and experience an amazing amount in a well-organized week, and that’s what Art History Alive promises you.
We’ll take in the astounding sweep of Rome’s art and history, from the emperor Augustus in the first century BC to his 20th-century wannabe, Mussolini. But don’t worry– we won’t rush you around the city all day, every day, merely glancing at monuments before hurrying on to yet another site. Instead, by carefully choosing sites near to one another, we can visit some of Rome’s best-known treasures as well as a couple of its lesser-known gems, and still have time for delicious meals and some hours on your own.
On the day of your arrival, you’ll no doubt want some fresh air and something wonderful to look at, so we’ll ascend the Gianicolo–Rome’s Janiculum Hill– to admire the Acqua Paola, a gorgeous Baroque fountain that overlooks a fabulous panorama of the city.
On subsequent days, we’ll visit the Ara Pacis, the altar dedicated to peace by Rome’s first emperor, Augustus, and then walk around a corner to view a piazza designed for Mussolini. We’ll visit the Pantheon, one of the greatest buildings in the world, once a temple to all the Roman gods and now a church, and just a few streets way, the Baroque church of Sant’ Ignazio, with ceiling paintings that will truly blow you away.

Prosciutto and Melon - A delicious work of art

We’ll also go inside the Colosseum, the huge arena where gladiators and wild animals once fought for the entertainment of the Roman populace. And rather than tramping through the Roman Forum, the seat of the ancient Roman government, we’ll view it from the summit of the Capitoline Hill– the latter re-designed by Michelangelo, and a superb example of High Renaissance city planning.
A visit to the small but interestingly decorated catacombs of St. Priscilla, a site few tourists succeed in finding, will acquaint you with the world of early Christianity as seen through a subterranean “city of the dead.” Medieval Rome will be right on our doorstep, in the form of the church of S. Maria in Trastevere, according to some, the earliest Christian site in Rome, and housing marvelous mosaics and other works of art from various periods.
No visit to Rome would be complete without seeing St. Peter’s, the epitome of High Renaissance grandeur and Baroque splendor. A visit to the Vatican Museums will end in the Sistine Chapel, where Michelangelo’s ceiling paintings provide one of the most unforgettable experiences in a city full of peak experiences.

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arthisto August 15th, 2011

Perfect Proceno Taken From the Castle Tower

Hello Everyone and a special hello to the Art History Alive fans that are educators, administrators and summer vacationers.  This post is all about YOU!  First, let me say THANK YOU  for all that you do, everyday, after school and weekends too.  I have watched my sister work very hard for thirty years.

AHA has quite a few followers that can only vacation in the summer, and they remind me of that fact rather often, as typically I do not plan trips for that time of year.  The trouble is I really don’t care for Europe in the summer for obvious reasons.  So, my attitude, when asked when I will plan a trip for summertime, has always been sort of yeah . . .  but no.

Then, this morning I had a brainstorm, just after receiving my invitation to the annual summer music festival at our castle in southern Tuscany, Castello di Proceno.  The music festival has always sounded wonderful to me, but being that it was in the summer . . . . . see where I am going with this???

But, I have changed my mind, because I can.  So, this is it.  Castle in Tuscany, in July, with a two day concert series performed in the courtyard of the 11th century castle, dressed to the nines, we will nibble on Tuscan treats, sip champagne, and gorgeous local  wines.  Guests come from all over the area to enjoy the beautiful music in this setting, and we will have our rooms in the same!  Anticipating that some of you will not have been to Italy before, and would want to see more than this “ultimate cultural immersion” music festival will provide, I will add to the mix, a few Tuscan hill towns and a day or two in Rome before flying home.

Rome!

This is just an FYI so that you can start planning.  Around September 1, 2011, I will post the entire line up of trips for 2012.  This is just one of the six or seven that we, at AHA, have been working on very hard.  The details of this trip will be posted then; dates, duration and price.  I can tell you now that the group size will be a maximum of 6.  I want to keep this pretty private.  Proceno is tiny,  in a time warp and I don’t want to infringe on that, so we will keep our foot print very small.  In fact, the precious time warp is why I chose this little hamlet in the first place.  Can you imagine the acoustics in this stone hill town?

And then we will go to ROME!

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arthisto April 13th, 2011

Fast Friends in Rome

Hi Everyone,
I would like you to meet my friend and Roman soul mate, Judith Testa. Judith is an author, a PhD in Art History, a columnist for Fra Noi (the Italian American newspaper of Chicago), a retired professor, and an awesome traveler. After reading her book, Rome is Love Spelled Backward, I did something that I never do. I sat right down and wrote a letter to the author. I expressed how illuminating the book had been for me and compared her book with my beloved copy of A Traveller In Rome, by H.V. Morton. I told her that within the first few pages I had realized that, for me, this book needed to be read with a highlighter in hand, and that now, many of its pages sported bright yellow markings, margin notes, and folded corners. I never expected to hear back, but hoped my letter would get through to her.
I did hear back, had one of those wonderful serendipitous connections, and made plans to meet in Boston soon. Judith would be flying in from her home in Illinois to visit friends in Boston, and I would travel north from our home in Connecticut. That meeting was, for me, magical and inspirational. We talked of Rome and loves there, we talked of art, on and off the beaten track, and the mystery of how we both could be so strongly drawn to this city. I said that it is like being caught in an undertow with the current always heading to Rome. We talked of not fighting what Judith described as “feeling a strange energy surge through her, a passion for the place that has never faded”.  I got dreamy as she described her trips to Rome, where she spends eight weeks every year.
Even though Judith and I have never again met on these shores, we hug each other warmly when we meet on the streets of Rome. For several years

AHA Guests With Judith in the Forum, Rome

now, almost annually, we connect. And with Judith and her wealth of knowledge as she shares “her” Rome with my husband Jim and myself, it’s as if we are on an AHA trip with my very fortunate guests.  Our friendship and admiration for each other has grown over the years, and now she and I can work together to make Art History Alive even better.
Many of you have read and enjoyed Judith’s book, as I strongly recommend it to anyone taking an AHA trip to Rome.  Front loading, or being prepared for a trip to a city like Rome is, in my opinion, essential. Rome is Love Spelled Backward is the perfect preparation, and it is the ONLY book I carry with me as I walk around Rome, whether I am with guests or on my own. I cannot recommend this book highly enough. Whether you have been to Rome, are planning a trip , or are just plain interested, it is enlightening.

Rome Is Love Spelled Backward: Enjoying Art and Architecture in the Eternal City Anyone interested in the classic arts will learn something from Testa’s text, whether it’s the reason the Pantheon was built, the source of the Christian and Jewish catacombs, or the roles that Caravaggio and Bernini played in creating a baroque Rome. With fifty photos, narrative text and no information on shops, restaurants, or hotels, it’s a guidebook for sophisticated travelers who already know where to stay, but want more than a sentence on what they’re seeing. Everything is presented in welcome detail with background information for a fuller understanding of the sites that surround a visitor to the Eternal City. amazon.com

Judith Testa, as an art history consultant extraordinaire,  is a part of the Art History Alive team and we are so very glad to have her.  Watch for my next post, which will be Judith’s thoughts on Art History Alive, written for Chicago’s Italo-American Newspaper and Blog, Fra Noi (Between Us).

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arthisto March 4th, 2011

My fav in Paris

Hello From Art History Alive:

Who has had it with this winter?  I have spent time on both coasts this winter and it seemed that no matter where I was, it was wet and/or foggy, freezing and/or snowing.  Enough, enough.  I am going to take a break June 2-8, 2011 and fly away to Paris.  Even if the weather is not nice, I will be surrounded by paintings, sculpture, and delicious hot cassolet with crunchy breads.  And those Bordeaux region wines, yum.  The photo to the left is of my “first night in Paris place”, simple and staggeringly delicious.  Some of you have been there with me, some, more than once, the rest of you need to make the trip.

I admit this trip is a bit on the selfish side.  I want to re-visit some out of the way places that I have enjoyed in the past. For example, the enormous flea market of Clignancourt, The Musee Marmottan, The Rodin Museum and the small, rather obscure, Musee Edith Piaf.
I am only going to take a very few on this trip, I want it to be easy and fun.  If you would like to go to Paris, you might want to join me for Paris 201: Beyond The Eiffel Tower.  This link will take you to a more detailed description of this itinerary.

The places that we will visit are where the Parisians spend their weekends, far away from the bustling tourist crowds.  To mention just one, Musee Marmottan became the home of the world’s largest collection of original Monet’s, when in 1966, Claude’s son Michel, donated his entire private collection, some 165 original paintings.  Did you know that?  And, wonderful for us, the musee is outside of the historic center of Paris, in a quiet neighborhood.  Can’t wait to “just be” in the airspace of these masterpieces.

I hope that you will forward this on to anyone, friends or family, that you think might like this cultural immersion into Paris.  To sign up for Paris 201, just go to the application page at the top of this post, or send me an email.  Also, happily, many of you are planning trips with AHA in 2012, both to Italy and Paris.  If you are reading this thinking that 2012 is the year for you, drop me a note so that I plan forward accordingly.

Happy Travels

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arthisto January 25th, 2011

Our Home in Tuscany, Castello di Proceno

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CAPTURING TUSCANY AND SORRENTO

SEPTEMBER 26 – October 3, 2011 ~ 8 DAYS ~ GROUP SIZE: 6
PRICE PER PERSON: $3,800.00

This is an AHA first, combining two drastically different yet incredibly picturesque areas of Italy.  Your opportunity to get to know the rugged Amalfi Coast and the soft hills of Tuscany, their art, history and as part of a small group of just six.

Tuscany, the land of cobblestoned hill towns, delicious food and wine, and Etruscan history.  Our landing spot will be the tiny hill town of Proceno, in southern Tuscany, and our rooms at Castello di Proceno.

This castle/fortress was built in the 11th century, is perched high up on a rocky spur, and has been creatively redesigned into several beautiful apartments. This is my favorite place in all of Tuscany. Once we check in and relax a bit, we will take a walk around town so that you can get your bearings. The views, in all directions are dreamlike, no, actually they are “calendar-like”. I will introduce you to Pucci and Giovanni, the owners of the castle, Roberto the grocer, where you can buy anything from locally made salami, to bedroom slippers, and Gianfranco, of Trattoria da Gianfranco. The castle will be our home for the next four days.

Some of the must-sees in this area include, the cathedral of Sovana, that took so long to build, it actually spans two architectural periods, hundreds of years apart.  As we sit in the back of the church you will see that two of its three aisles are Romanesque and the third is Gothic. Amazing and totally unique.

WW II Bullet Holes, Cathedral, Pienza

Then there is the hill town hamlet of Pienza that was, luckily for us, caught in a time warp. During the first half of the 1400′s, Pope Pius II, responsible for the revitalization and redesigning of his beloved hometown, was called away to raise troops for a crusade to the Holy Land. He left a Papal Bull, in beautiful Latin, that stated nothing should be touched until his return. Unfortunately, in 1465 he died while away, and Pienza dutifully has left everything just as it was. Because of this, a visit to Pienza gives us a real time snapshot of Tuscan life in the 1400′s. Pienza was miraculously spared during World War II bombing raids, however the machine gun holes in the exterior side wall of the cathedral are a reminder of what happened here when both Germans and Americans took turns occupying Pienza and the surrounding towns. This is a fascinating area with lots to explore, learn, taste and photograph. Brunellos come from these hills, as does a most delicious soft, not salty, pecorino cheese.

Civita di Bagnoregio

And who can be in this area and not visit the most haunting of all hill towns, Civita di Bagnoregio? Not me! Civita sits a top a rock outcrop , built entirely of that same rock, it appears to be something organic that simply grew out of the mountain. However, because of earthquakes over the centuries much of the spur and city have dropped away, leaving Civita sitting like a diamond nestled in a round solitaire setting. There is one approach to the city, a walking bridge that spans the gorge that encircles Civita. Often, in the morning, the city is engulfed in clouds or fog and it appears that the bridge leads to no where. Sometimes the fog fills just the gorge with Civita above as if floating in the sky. This is like nothing else you would have seen up to this point, and you will remember it always. Comfortable walking shoes, your camera, and a hefty appetite are a must for Civita di Bagnoregio.

Saying our goodbyes to Tuscany we will hop the speedy Eurostar to Naples, and onto gorgeous Sorrento. We will stay in Sorrento, at the beautiful Hotel Antiche Mura.  Sorrento, is built high above the Mediterranean on a flat plateau, here you can walk to the edge and look straight

From The Top Of Capri

down the cliff into the warm, see-through water. Here, where centuries ago pirates marauded, we will wander the alleyways, visit Pompeii, and Capri, capturing its spirit.  With all of the fresh seafood, pastas, crispy white wines and frosty limoncello that you can take in, within a picturesque fishing village and with Mt. Vesuvius as a back drop to photograph, you will ask yourself, “Can it get any better than this?” Nope!

Which will be your favorite? Cobblestoned Tuscany, with its full o’flavor wines and where you met the locals and stayed in a castle, or the warm seafront terraces and fishing villages of the Amalfi Coast? These will be ongoing comparisons that may never have a definitive conclusion. As for me, after 20 years of loving these places, I could say it’s like comparing apples and oranges, but it’s not, it’s cobblestones and lemons.

Physical level: Moderate

In General:

AHA is great places to visit, more interesting things to learn, and very small groups. Over the next few weeks I will post a list of recommended reading and movies, destination specific, that will allow you to front load your travel experience.

You will notice that we have added two itineraries that include my absolute favorite places in California.  I hope that some of you will consider touring the best that California has to offer.  I am a fifth generation Californian and would love to show you around.

We are very happy to announce:

• Early booking benefits
• Alumni discounts
• Refundable deposits

The NEW money saving opportunities are on the Specials and Discounts Page. These trips can fill up fast so early booking is important and saves you money.

All trips include: Hotels, all meals and house wines, (well, you don’t have to have wine with breakfast) ground transportation, and museum admissions.

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arthisto October 14th, 2010

In San Francisco with guests from the east coast.  We  scored a perfectly warm and sunny day.

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arthisto October 11th, 2010

Chinatown, San Francisco

Love this itinerary, who wouldn’t?

Two of my guests for the upcoming Gold Rush Wines and Yosemite are coming from the east coast and asked if I would be willing to extend that itinerary for a few more days and a bit more of California. Absolutely! Take the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains and Yosemite and add San Francisco, Carmel and Big Sur, and these east coasters are in for a real eye opening experience.

For those of you who have contacted me regarding this trip, the extended day by day itinerary of Gold Rush Wines and Yosemite is as follows:

October 14 – Guests arrive at airport in San Francisco mid-day. I gather them up and whisk them into San Francisco for the balance of the day.
To include: A view of SF, Alcatraz, The Golden Gate Bridge, from Treasure Island. A walking tour of Chinatown, a fortune cooking factory, colorful shopping, and lunch at House of Nanking, the best! Union Square park and shopping, The Carnelian Room, top of the Bank of America building for the breathtaking view and welcome to California libation. Drive to Santa Cruz, check in to ocean side hotel.  Mexican dinner at El Palomar.

October 15 – After breakfast over the ocean we are on our way to the Gold Rush area of California. Lunch enroute.  Check in to the historic Gunn House, Sonora.  A short and pretty drive and some wine tasting in Murphy’s, CA, wandering this very cute little town, dinner Murphy’s.

October 16 – After our breakfast, two hour spa treatments, to include full body massage and European facials. Leisurely lunch and some exploring of downtown Sonora. Dinner at the famously delicious Diamond Back Winebar and Cafe.

October 17 – After a relaxed breakfast, a very scenic drive into Yosemite Valley, check in at the Ahwahnee Hotel. A picnic lunch followed by a walk to

Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls

lower Yosemite Falls and a visit to the Ansel Adams Gallery. Tea and relaxing in the Grand Lounge, Ahwahnee before dinner at the Mountain Room Grill.

October 18 – Breakfast in the Ahwahnee dining room. Slow paced exploring of, arguably, the queen of the National Parks. Late afternoon departure for the SF Bay Area via a stop at Inspiration Point (Tunnel View) and Bridal Veil Falls. A lasting remembrance.

October 19 – After a restful night back at our ocean side hotel in Santa Cruz, CA, we will drive south on scenic Highway One as it winds its way along the coast. We will lunch at The Restaurant at Ventana, where the views and food are wonderful. Then turning north, we will stop in beautiful Carmel-By-The-Sea. To be sure that we are not rushed, we will spend the night in this quaint coastal town, and have time to visit its Mission Carmel, as well.  Dinner at Casanova, Carmel’s premeir French Country restaurant.

October 20 - Carmel-By-The-Sea and our return to Santa Cruz. Dinner at our home in Capitola.

October 21 – Kisses and goodbyes and flights to the east coast.

What a wonderful taste of California, especially since one of my guests was born here but moved east at a very young age. She is in for such a treat and I get to watch! Love this itinerary!!!

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arthisto September 20th, 2010

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I came to Italy for the art, history, ancient architecture, scenic beauty, food, wine, hill towns, landscapes, and loving it all, I return for Rome.

Why does one place reach out and hug you, and others simply don’t?  No one really knows, and further, who cares, it just happens.  However, when it happens, it is very personal, and at the same time, very intimate.  For some it’s a sandy beached island, a mountain perch, an almost silent lake, the sidewalks of Paris, Vienna, or among the Giant Sequoias, here in California.  But when it happens, you know it.

After about 48  hours in Rome,  I felt a sense of sinking into it, a yearn to get lost in it.  Not in the great sites, suddenly the Colosseum and the Forum jumped into the back seat, I wanted to be on a back street in a nondescript neighborhood.   I didn’t want to stand out, but quite the opposite, I wanted to blend in, fit, smear into Rome. Recognize the feeling?

Frances Mayes feels about Tuscany, as I do about Rome.  She describes it this way.  “. . . the place took hold of me and shaped me in its image.”  Exactly.

Unbelievable Dinner with Roman Friends

“I wanted an aperture, an opportunity to merge with something limitless.”  I didn’t know that I did, but boy, did I.

And finally, “  . . . something that takes you out of yourself also restores you to yourself with a greater freedom.”  This last quote touches on what many travelers who fall in love with a place refer to as ” I felt like I was home.”  I love the way that Rome swoops me out of myself, fills me to the brim, and returns a wiser, more humbled me. However, when I am in Rome and wandering, I feel small as the enormity of all that Rome has been, is and will be, surrounds me. How could I not want a repeat of that thrill ride?

Through the ages, Rome has gathered many, many lovers, I am only one, but that’s OK, I can share.   When I arrive we have such a joyous reunion, Rome is all decked out and gives me her full attention.  Below are some thoughts by a few of her other lovers:

Barbara Gruzzuti Harrison (1934-2002) – “I am happy here; when I or others have bruised my life, I close my eyes against the hurt and think of Rome: as possibility and hope. . . The world is lovable when the world is Rome. . . For the rest of my life I will love Rome and think better of my life having known Rome.”

Johann Goethe (1749-1832) – In Rome you learn to. . . . “See with an eye that can feel, feel with a hand that can see.”

Henry James (1843-1916) – At nineteen years old, “I went reeling and moaning thro’ the streets, in a fever of enjoyment.”  Fifty years later – “No one who has ever loved Rome, as Rome could be loved in youth, wants to stop loving her.”

H. V. Morton (1892-1979) – “I looked down with gratitude upon the city where I had learnt many things; but one does not say goodbye to Rome.”

Judith Testa – (During my first visit) . . .”A strange energy surged through me, a passion for the place which has never faded but only increased with each subsequent visit.  Whenever I return to Rome, I experience that same anticipation, energy, and excitement.”

Jim Quist – “I love Rome simply because it’s Italian.”

Why is Rome so magnetic?  Could it be the magnificent art, layered history, delicious food, warm Italians, winding alleys, underground shrines, alongside, or often times under, haute couture,  400 churches, one 2,000 years old?  Yes, and what about the churches, where most of the art resides?  Isn’t Rome considered the very heart of Christendom? Maybe it is the endless stories about the lives of the the artists that, through the ages, arrived in Rome from all over Italy, to contribute to its greatness in painting, architecture, sculpture, mosaic, bronze, and on and on.  The personalities, the conflicts, the rivalries.  When you know what Michelangelo said just after beginning the Moses, or how he managed to get his Pieta into St. Peter’s without permission, all while standing in front of the masterpieces, Rome elevates, moves, enriches, empowers, and becomes magnetic.

Perhaps you have never experienced a “passion blow”, and wonder how  you sink deeply into a place, and catch its spirit?  These are requisites for AHA guests, and I have never had a complaint.

• Front Loading.  Before departure, study your destination and the things that you will see.  A good travel guide can do nicely, but be sure that it has photos.  I have traveled for years without front loading, but never more.  Your knowledge will afford a wonderful feeling of familiarity and understanding upon recognition of a painting, a cafe, or street corner, that you have read about.  With a smile you can say to yourself, ” I know this place.”  Great rush.
• Pace is very important.  You cannot be rushing, so you need time in one place.  Give yourself at least four full days.  Then quietly observe everything around you, from the art to the shoe styles.  Coats, ties, skin, and faces.
• Fight the urge to make a list of must sees, that you then focus on.  When you get home, it shouldn’t be about the places that you saw, it should be about what you have learned and felt.  If your memories of Rome sound like this, ” Big bustling city, full of traffic and noise”, than you have missed it, and you should consider a return trip. Thankfully, Rome is endless, immortal and forgiving.

I will be in Rome guiding AHA’s  After twenty years, just writing those words, “I will be in Rome”, puts a smile on my face and pulls at my heart.  I would love to share it with you.

• After Trip Report , Art and History , Destination Updates , Food, Wine, and Friends , Trip Advice
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