VITTORIA’S STORY: Civita de Bagnoregio
arthisto January 28th, 2010
Vittoria
I would like you to meet my friend Vittoria. As you can see she has lived a long life, and all of it in tiny, Civita de Bagnoregio. All of her life, that is, except for a short time during, and just after WWII, and this is her story.
The population of Civita di Bagnoregio ranges anywhere from 15 to 75, depending on the season, and Vittoria is one of the 15. Many of you have visited this most haunting of hill towns, either with me, for I NEVER visit Tuscany/Lazio without walking the cobblestone streets of Civita, or on your own. And if you did it on your own, congratulations! One has to REALLY want to go there to be determined enough to find it, all tucked away in her hills. But, as you approach, she rises up on her tufa throne, and sits majestically, albeit precariously, right up on top. An amazing sight.
Civita de Bagnoregio dates back 3,000 years, to before the Etruscan civilization, which pre-dates the Romans. Now, as interesting as this “City of Dead” is, and how it got its name, this story is about Vittoria. The story that she related to me one sunny afternoon, was that of her memories of World War II in her little town when she was 22 years old.
She began by explaining that around 1943, Civita di Bagnoregio was a bit larger than it is now, and that the concrete and steel bridge
Civita di Bagnoregio with its Bridge
that spans the surrounding chasm, the only artery to the arched entrance gate of Civita, is a handsome one, but not the one that she grew up with. The old stone bridge that she referred to was wide enough for people to pass a donkey cart as they hiked from Civita to the larger town of Bagnoregio, located across the very deep canyon. Vittoria told me that the people of Civita would cross the bridge to shop for what they needed, because their tiny town had very little in the way of shops. Stopping along the way to visit with their neighbors, the bridge was a lifeline to the outside world.
The bridge is 900 feet in length, is rather steep and takes about 15 minutes to walk.
Toward the end of the WWII, when the Germans were being ordered to retreat north to Germany, the bombing in Tuscany and Lazio intensified. Vittoria remembers the sounds of the planes flying so close that even as she tells me the story, she briefly covers her ears. With bombs dropping within earshot, as the Allies were attempting to blow up the train lines thereby hindering the retreating Germans, a bomb destroyed the bridge connecting Civita to the rest of the world.
Civita di Bagnoregio
Fleeing their homes on top of the hill, where they felt exposed and vulnerable, the small band of citizens huddled together in an Etruscan cave built into the rock and under the town. For many, many days, as they listened to the planes overhead, they stayed hidden, afraid to venture back to town and afraid of the destruction that they might encounter. Vittoria cannot remember exactly how long they were in the cave before food and water became a determining factor in the creation of a plan. She told me that the group decided that they had to try and get to their big sister, Bagnoregio for help. Of course, with the bridge out, they had to find another way. She explained that there was local knowledge of the old Etruscan walking routes, and after some exploration, they attempted the hike. Even the elderly had to make the crossing, no one could be left behind.
One of Vittoria’s clearest memories, and she smiled as she described it, was climbing up to Bagnoregio and the people at the top extending their hands to pull the small band up and out of the valley that separated them. The people of Bagnoregio took them in and shared what little they had. Vittoria’s memory of time is unclear, but she simply said that they were in Bagnoregio for a very long time, and until the new stone bridge was complete. Vittoria’s family chose to return to Civita, even though many of their neighbors did not. The population of the little town decreased considerably and through the years was dubbed the “City of the Dead”. As I mentioned above, the population of Civita has been as low as 15, but now swells to 75, with up to 200 day trippers on a summer weekend ( I avoid summer weekends at all costs). Wealthy Romans have bought up many of the houses, still left in tact, as vacation homes, and, like Vittoria, a few of the elderly inhabitants remain.
Bruschetta Cave, Civita di Bagnoregio
The bridge, which is a vitally important component in the life of Civita, was again destroyed in 1964 by an earthquake, very prevalent in this area. The concrete and steel bridge that we walk on today, to make our way to Vittoria, is yet another replacement.
Needless to say, Civita is a favorite of mine, and so I happily guide my guests across the bridge and into the town where this and other stories are told over crunchy bruschetta toasted in a fireplace, washed down with a glass of wine, all while sitting in a cave. This is Cultural Immersion Travel.
June 2010 will find AHA in Tuscany and Rome. Civita di Bagnoregio will be on the itinerary.
Tips on visiting Civita di Bagnoregio:
- During the summer months avoid the weekends!
- Wear very comfortable clothes and shoes. The walk is a hefty one, takes 15 to 20 minutes, but is so worth it!
- To get to my favorite Bruschetteria Antico Frantoio, with the entrance gate to your back, walk down the only main street. The Cathedral will be on your left as you enter the Piazza. Continue on the same street to the Bruschetteria on your left with a small courtyard in front. Enjoy!
- Watch for Vittoria as she often sits in the sun across from the Bruschetteria.
- To arrive at the Etruscan caves where Vittoria hid, continue down the main street to the end of town (opposite end from where you entered). There you will find some steps down, just follow them.
- A helpful link for planning a visit.
