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FROM ROME: First Things First – Food! by Alysa Weinstein Gravina

July 18th, 2012

As soon as I am settled in my neighborhood, I have to find my stores: my macellaio (butcher) my frutto vendolo (fruit and vegetable stand), my alimentari (deli) and my forno (bakery). It is crucial to have a relationship with each and every one of these places and the people who run them. And believe me, this takes time.

I have Roberto on via Fraccassini who always has the most juicy fruits and green vegetables (some pre-cut and pre-washed), minestrone, beans, chick peas and fava, and, when in season, at least 4 types of cherry tomatoes. Something I forgot, living in the U.S. for so long, is that every food actually has a season and, for that matter, so does wine. Roberto loves America, tattoos, R&B music, and fruit and vegetables, so we have lots to talk about on my daily visits.

The alimentari was not as easy. Across the street from the fruit and vegetable stand is a wonderful family-run business. Aurelia Mocci, the granddame (nonna), runs the show even as her husband, son, and daughter man the deli counter. She takes your money and she rarely smiles. They sell all types of prepared meats, cheeses, olives, artichokes, and other vegetables in oil, as well as bread, milk, and butter. Getting more than a frown from her was the ultimate challenge. It seemed impossible until she met my son Sebastian. Then I was in! Because, as everyone knows, Italians LOVE children.

The macellaio is my favorite place. I have never been a very big meat eater, but at this particular stand in a covered market near my house, I can go crazy. They sell meatballs and meatloaf, stuffed olives, and veal and chicken cutlets that are unbelievably mouth-watering. You can also find almost every cut of every type of meat you?d ever want, and they cut it all while you wait. It goes without saying that everything is as fresh as can be or as aged as required. They are also the sweetest family. There is nothing better than being greeted by Leandro with his booming ?Ciao cara,? and knowing that after all these years, I am getting not only the best of his product, but the best of his service.

The bakery, unfortunately, is not in my neighborhood, but I need an excuse to go by the Campo di Fiori (flower fields). Nothing is more fun than making the 30-minute walk from my house to the campo, passing the Pantheon and Piazza Navona along the way, for the most delicious pizza al taglio, which I eat outside the store. Then I buy some fresh bread and a crostata to take home. A perfect day!

It is not important where you have to go for the daily bread but that when you arrive you know who you are dealing with and are sure that you getting what you actually came for.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE EURO EXCHANGE RATE IS MOST CERTAINLY IN OUR FAVOR

July 7th, 2012

What does Art History Alive have to do with the economic crunch in the E.U.? A couple of things:

1. Because the exchange rate is the lowest it has been since 1997, we have chosen to pass that savings on to our clients?you! We have three AHA trips going to Italy this summer and fall, and the prices for these trips have come down significantly.

2.? The E.U. is teetering, tourism is down, and this reminded me of something. After the events of September 11, 2001, I clearly remember Mayor Giuliani on television asking folks to come to New York, and not to give way to fear by staying away.?Well, we listened, and one month after that terrible day, we packed up and headed to NYC for the annual Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade, wondering if the streets would be a bit empty. Quite the opposite! It was one of the largest crowds on record. Santa Claus is always the huge climax to the parade, riding the last float, but I had to cover my ears when the float that preceded Santa passed by. On that float were Mayor Giuliani, the Fire Commissioner, the Police Commissioner, some fire fighters and police officers, and the flag that flew at the World Trade Center site. We were so glad that we had gone to NYC and supported the city in that terrible time.

I feel a bit the same about the E.U. right now. AHA has so many friends in Italy and France who are suffering as their financial systems struggle. I think that it is safe to say that the E. U. needs our travel dollars more than anytime since post WWII, another terrible time for Europe.

In hopes of stimulating more of you to travel, I am lowering the prices on the upcoming AHA trips and designing personal itineraries for the friends and clients who cannot go with us, but will go on their own and want it to be the AHA style. We will create for you, a dream trip based on your desires and our experience. Infused in each itinerary is my enthusiasm and passion, which I cannot help.

Below are our AHA trips with reduced prices. Each one has been created with every detail considered, every lunch and dinner, every warm evening and cobblestoned alley. And now, we can use these to help our friends out of a very tough time, and see wondrous things at the same time.

MUSICA IN TUSCANY – CLOSED
A Castle Courtyard Concert, Hill Towns, and Rome
JULY 12 ? 18, 2012
Was $3,300. Now $2,900. Savings $400.00

ROME AND TUSCANY
A Colosseum and a Castle
SEPTEMBER 30 ? OCTOBER 8, 2012
Was $3,900. Now $3,400. Savings $500.00

GERMANY, ALONG THE ROMANTIC ROAD
Cathedrals, Castles, and a Concentration Camp
This itinerary is available for purchase. Call for pricing and your copy for travel at your convenience.

ROMA AMOR: ROME IS LOVE SPELLED BACKWARD
Judith Testa brings her book to life as she shares with us her Rome.
OCTOBER 10 ? 17, 2012
Was $4,100. Now $3,600. Savings $500.00

LIVING IN ROME, by Alysa Weinstein Gravina, AHA Correspondent

April 12th, 2012

Piazza del Popolo, Rome

They say all roads lead to Rome. In my case it is absolutely true.

No matter where I traveled or what caught my fascination, I always ended up back in Rome. The city does that to you, like it or not.

There are 10 ancient roads that go in every direction in and out of Rome. One of the most historically important roads is Via Flaminia, constructed around 220 BC. Technically, you could drive north about 5 hours, from the Piazza del Popolo, along the Via Flaminia, all the way to Rimini, arriving on the Adriatic coast of Italy, and the hometown of Federico Fellini. This is the street where I live. In 5 minutes, I can be at the Porta del Popolo standing in the piazza with thousands of other people marveling at the magic of the Egyptian Obelisk, or the beauty of the twin churches, Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto.

 

 

If I go in the other direction, in 10 minutes I will arrive at Ponte Milvio. This bridge, which was built in 206 BC, is pedestrian, and after an Italian film,

Lovers Locks, Rome

entitled ?I Want You? (from 10 years ago), the lampposts are decorated with padlocks that young couples have left in honor of their love. But the tradition of “love” stretches much further back. It is said that Emperor Nero used to frequent the bridge with his lovers for certain debaucheries.

 

Being among these monuments and surrounded by a history that shapes us all, is an everyday occurrence for me, but now, being able to write about it, is giving me a chance to appreciate this gift, beyond just living it.

 

 

 

 

Part 2: ROMA – A Lifetime Is Not Enough

January 31st, 2012

 

 

Dinner For AHA, Rome

 

AHA and I will be in Rome three times in 2012. Links to the trip descriptions are below this post. Enjoy Part 2 of ROMA.

I came to Italy for the art, history, ancient architecture, scenic beauty, food, wine, hill towns, landscapes, and, loving it all, I return for Rome.

Why does one place reach out and hug you, and others simply don?t?? No one really knows, but really, who cares? It just happens. When it does, however, it is very personal and very intimate.?For some, it?s a sandy- beached island, a mountain perch, an almost silent lake, the sidewalks of Paris, Vienna, or strolling the Giant Sequoias.?But when it happens, you know it.

After about 48 hours in Rome,?I felt a sense of sinking into it, a yearning to get lost in it. Not in the great sites necessarily. Suddenly the Colosseum and the Forum jumped into the back seat. I wanted to be on a back street in a nondescript neighborhood. I didn?t want to stand out; in fact, quite the opposite. I wanted to blend in, fit, and melt into Rome.

Frances Mayes feels about Tuscany as I do about Rome.? She describes it this way: ??The place took hold of me and shaped me in its image.?? Exactly.

?I wanted an aperture,? she writes elsewhere, ?an opportunity to merge with something limitless. Something that takes you out of yourself also restores

Dinner With Our Roman Friends

you to yourself with a greater freedom.? And finally, ?I wanted an aperture, an opportunity to merge with something limitless.?

This last quote touches on what many travelers who fall in love with a place often recount: ?I felt like I was home.??I love the way Rome swoops me out of myself, fills me to the brim, and returns a wiser, more humbled me. And often, when wandering its tangled web of streets, I feel very small as the enormity of all that Rome has been, is, and will be, surrounds me. How could I not want a repeat of that thrill ride?

Through the ages, Rome has gathered many, many lovers, of which I am but one. When I arrive, we have such a joyous reunion. Rome is all decked out and gives me her full attention.?Below are some thoughts by a few of her other lovers:

Living History In Rome

Barbara Gruzzuti Harrison (1934-2002) – “I am happy here; when I or others have bruised my life, I close my eyes against the hurt and think of Rome: as possibility and hope. . . The world is lovable when the world is Rome. . . For the rest of my life I will love Rome and think better of my life having known Rome.”

Johann Goethe (1749-1832) – In Rome you learn to. . . . “See with an eye that can feel, feel with a hand that can see.”

Henry James (1843-1916) – At nineteen years old, “I went reeling and moaning thro’ the streets, in a fever of enjoyment.”? Fifty years later – “No one who has ever loved Rome, as Rome could be loved in youth, wants to stop loving her.”

H. V. Morton (1892-1979) – “I looked down with gratitude upon the city where I had learnt many things; but one does not say goodbye to Rome.”

Judith Testa – (During my first visit) . . .”A strange energy surged through me, a passion for the place which has never faded but only increased with each subsequent visit.? Whenever I return to Rome, I experience that same anticipation, energy, and excitement.”

Jim Quist – “I love Rome simply because it’s Italian.”

AHA and I will be in Rome three times in 2012. Funny, even after twenty years, just writing those words, “I will be in Rome”, puts a smile on my face and pulls at my heart.? I would love to share it with you.

Musica in Tuscany: July 12 ? 18, 2012, includes two days in Rome.

Rome and Tuscany: September 30 ? October 8, 2012, includes four full days in Rome.

Roma Amor: Rome Is Love Spelled Backward: October 10 ? 17, 2012, is a full week in Rome guided by Judith Testa, PhD, author of the book by the same name, and myself. A daring duo of like-minded pilgrims are we.

 

TRIP #2 – ITALY’S SARDEGNA: ANCIENT, WILD, SPECTACULAR, by Gillian Seely

August 30th, 2011

 

May 22 – 28, 2012 ~ 7 Days ~ Group Size: 6

Price: $3,100.00

AHA is so pleased to have Gillian Seely on board to guide this deeply cultural adventure to her loved Sardegna.? An effervescent and bright young woman who loves AHA as I do, whomever travels with her to Italy will have a wonderful and rich time.? I will be joining this trip, my first to Sardegna, so am looking forward to learning all about this island right along side of you.

Why Sardegna?? By Gillian Seely

In 2006, I went with a friend to the French island of Corsica for a long weekend. ?It was stunning, peaceful, and vibrant in a bizarre and serene way that is unique to the Mediterranean, but it was missing something. ?Admittedly an Italophile, I wasn?t really satisfied. ??I want my seafood mixed in with al dente linguine?, and ?Why aren?t people yelling at each other in heated conversation over dinner?? I whined (in my head, of course). ?The island immediately to the south beckoned. ?I wanted to go to Sardegna?to see the same kind of island, but, in my mind, the improved version. ?Improved simply by virtue of having been inhabited by the fiery and beautiful Italians with whom I am so obsessed. ?We didn?t have time.

In the summer of 2010, several years after moving stateside, I did go back to the Mediterranean, and finally, to Sardegna. ?It exceeded my expectations, and now I have been honored with the opportunity to lead an Art History Alive trip to this incredible and unforgettable island.

What can you expect to experience on an AHA trip to Sardegna? ?Without paraphrasing the itinerary, here?s a look at the cultural highlights that make this one of my favorite destinations:
The Language: ?Lingua Sarda?, ?Sardu?, or ?Limba Sarda?. ?A beautiful and musical language that is Italian in essence, but is completely different– as any Italian will readily admit. ?The language is said to ?feature archaic phonetic features when compared to other Romance languages?. ?It is believed to have been influenced by Illyrian, Etruscan, and even the Basque language. ??The root of ?sard? is said to have come from the ?Sherden?, one of the so-called ?Peoples of the Sea?. ?I?m not a linguist, but it is noticeably different from the Italian I have studied, and for me, listening to Sardu makes me feel like I?m eavesdropping on something ancient and mysterious.

Sardinian ?Music Bread?

The Food: Expect to taste authentically-regional island cuisine that comes straight from the sea and the land?really! ?You?ll find very few gimmicky ?spaghetti Bolognese? set menus here. ?Save for a few major grocery chains that import from the continent, the island heavily utilizes its own resources– from seafood to locally-grown produce, and grapes that make unique and flavorful wines. ?And the locals are very proud of this point, as you might imagine. ?Some delicacies of the island include ?pane carasu? or ?music bread?, a flat, tortilla-like accompaniment to many main courses; and ?fregula?, a pasta of Moorish origin that resembles couscous. ?Everything is unique and flavorful!

The Music: Cantu a Tenore is an ancient form of polyphonic ?throat singing? that has put the island on the map, musically. ?According to some historians, the practice of singing in this style dates back to the Nuragic civilization (we?ll learn all about them on this trip). ?Some speculate that the deeply-primitive and almost Moorish sounds were intended to mimic the sounds of the sheep. ?The Nuragic people were shepherds.

Nuraghe Dwelling

The Sites: We will see the Nuraghe dwellings, and the Domus de Janas (literally, ?houses of the fairies?). ?These are strange, prehistoric, beehive-like structures, believed to have been inhabited by the semi-nomadic Sardegnan people. ?We will also see the breathtaking Grotto di Nettuno (Neptune?s Grotto), a massive system of coastal caverns filled with intense geological features. ?This is one of the most visually-appealing stalactite caves in Europe, and the approach by boat is dramatic to say the least.

Coast of Sardinia

The Beaches: White sands, blue water with excellent visibility, and countless opportunities for snorkeling, kayaking, and swimming in refreshing waters. ?Sure, this isn?t the main thrust of the trip, but these beaches are to die for.

Tempted yet? ?Sardegna isn?t for everyone. ?It does not offer bustling urban nightlife, well-managed museums, high-end shopping districts, or high-profile Roman ruins. ?It can be challenging to get around, the residents are uncommonly conservative, and tourism is relatively new to the island. ?It is, however, a wonderful place for an authentic Mediterranean adventure and deeply cultural experience. ? Think of Sardegna as Italy?s unruly, wild, but stunningly-beautiful cousin.

D.H. Lawrence said it best:

?Sardinia, which is like nowhere. Sardinia, which has no history, no date, no race, no offering. Let it be Sardinia. They say neither Romans nor Phoenicians, Greeks nor Arabs ever subdued Sardinia. It lies out- side; outside the circuit of civilisation. Like the Basque lands. Sure enough, it is Italian now, with its railways and its motor-omnibuses. But there is an uncaptured Sardinia still. It lies within the net of this European civilisation, but it isn’t landed yet?Let it be Sardinia.?

Flag of Sardegna

RESEARCH TRIP RESULTS: WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES, DISMAL DISAPPOINTMENTS

December 12th, 2009

Lago di Como

Lago di Como

“My commitment to cultural immersion travel is strong. That is why I insist on research trips.? I continue seeking out sites, smells, and tastes that will envelope and enrich my AHA guests.? This is a different kind of travel, a more personal approach, with a focus on a deeper understanding of a culture other than our own.”? -Cynthia Quist

Wonderful discoveries and some dismal disappointments.? That sums up three weeks of pretty intense research in Italy for Jim and I.? We worked hard, ate a lot, and took notes on everything.? One difficult night, the only consolation that we had, as we laid awake in our two tiny twin beds in a HOT, stuffy room with a party going on outside our windows, was the knowledge that you, our guests, would never have to experience this.? On the other hand, in Sorrento, where we had booked for just two nights, everything was so perfect that we longed to extend our stay.

Our itinerary: Paris 3 days, Lake Como 3 days, Tuscany 6 days, Rome 5 days, Sorrento 2 days.

We covered a large part of that little boot, (and sometimes felt as though we had been kicked by it).? The good news is that our guests benefit from the good and the ill.? Based on our pages of notes we will create a beautiful and delicious new Italian Itinerary for 2011.? It will be a Northern Italian trip to include The Lakes region, Florence, and Northern Tuscany.? If you are interested in the new itinerary, keep your eye on this blog.

But for the present, if you are interested in a, post-battle report on our three week sojourn, here you go.

Paris bakery

Paris Bakery

Paris: Hotel Pas du Calais remains a favorite, with its warm and welcoming staff, pretty rooms, delicious breakfast, and a perfect location on the Left Bank.

We will be adding the beautiful town and immense cathedral of Chartres to our Paris itinerary in the future.? A beautiful day trip from Paris.? We discovered new parts of Versailles to explore, and some that we weren’t supposed to be in.? Oops!

The food in Paris was a dismal disappointment, and it shouldn’t ever be that way.? We ate at all types of eateries, and found the bistros and brasseries to be most dependable.? The two star Micheline, with it’s fish foam, will surly appeal to some, but I think I lost weight in Paris.? Our favorite brasserie, is as delicious as ever and I wouldn’t miss eating there for anything.? However, the day we left Paris we felt we were fleeing the land of butter, cream, and Bordeaux wines, and were in a hurry to arrive in the land of tomatoes, olive oil, and brunello.

Lunch at the lake

Lakeside lunch at the San Giorgio

Lake Como: The four star Grand Hotel Imperiale was a bit of a disappointment.? But the very peaceful Hotel San Giorgio was adorable and is calling to me this very minute.? Located on the lake with a large gently rolling lawn, dotted with lawn furniture and easing down to the lapping edge of the lake, is the place for me.? Not trying to be something it is not, it exudes character, delicious food, and a lakeside walk into the little town of Lenno.? From here you can catch a boat to other pretty towns on the banks of the lake, never having to get into a car.? All of this with the snow capped Swiss Alps looming above you.? This place was magic and I will be sure that my guests have enough time here to really let down.

We landed on four wonderful restaurants here.? The garden and terrace restaurant at the San Giorgio, where Jim swears he had the best pizza of his life and I had a beautifully presented caprese salad.? After lunch it was all we could do not to drop into one of the hotel lounges for a nap.? If we had been guests of the San Giorgio, that is exactly what we would have done, but instead we walked to Lenno and did some exploring.? Darling!

Another wonderful discovery was Trattoria Del Fagiano (guinea fowl), high up above the lake, each course in this great place was perfect.? Maria Louisa and Enza run the front, and you better clean your plate or you are going to hear about it.? Wilma is in

The Fagiano Crew

The Fagiano Crew

the kitchen with Chef Gabriele, who masterminds the absolutely delicious country Italian fare, and Mr. Giorgio (Wilma’s husband) runs the bar and makes the oh so important espressos.? I cannot wait to share Trattoria Del Fagiano with AHA travelers!? The Italian menu was daunting so Maria Luisa took over.? If you are interested, below is a description of what she decided we were going to enjoy at this eatery.
Antipasti: Paper thin prosciutto with shaved parmigiano cheese, sauteed mushrooms, bruschetta topped with bacon, braseola with melted mozzarella, drizzled with vinegar.? At that point, and I know that you know this feeling, I was pretty much done.? Oh no, no, no.? Primi piatti – house twisted pasta with a sauce of? light tomato and ground fagiano, plus the lightest crepe ever, oozing a bechamel sauce, rolled then sliced very thinly, smothered in fresh tomatoes and baked in the oven.? OK, now its not funny.? Remember those elastic waisted pants I bought before departure, yeah well, you can imagine where I am going with this when Maria Louisa arrives at our table with a wild boar stew served over country polenta.? Yeah, not to filling.? But hey, I told myself I was doing it all for you, the reader and traveler, it was my responsibility, right?? Jim looked across the table at me and gasped something rather negative about our food in Paris . . . .

Prosciutto and melon

Prosciutto on melon

A departure from the country food is the Imperialino. Very, very beautiful terrace dining, lakeside.? Service was impeccable and yet friendly, and the food was absolutely wonderful.? I just have to mention my antipasti.? I ordered Prosciutto and melon and that is what I received but the presentation was amazing.? Thin slices of cantaloupe covered the bottom of my huge plate, but someone had taken the thin prosciutto and fashioned it delicately into the shape of a rose in full bloom sitting on top.? I will look forward to sharing this quiet, elegant restaurant with guests.

And finally, La Locanda.? This place you have to experience to believe.? Located on the only island on Lake Como, we arrived by boat to a very famous, yet casual six course lunch, under a tree on the terrace.? Please!!!!? It just could not have been more perfect.? This became a must for all of the AHA trips to the Lake Como area.? Take a look at their website.? Too fun!

From Lago Di Como we headed south to Pienza, located in the heart of Tuscany for the next six days, stopping for lunch in Cremona.? Cremona is the town where Stradivari lived and created his perfect violins, now on display, and I have wanted to visit for many years.? It was not a disappointment.

Abbey of Saint Antimo, Tuscany

Abbey of Saint Antimo, Tuscany

Tuscany :? Staying in a beautifully redesigned farmhouse on top of a hill, we relished traveling through the area at a very leisurely pace.? The high points were the 12th century Abby of Saint Antimo, where the resident Gregorian monks chant . . . .? stunning.? The beef steak restaurant, Osteria Acquacheto, so good we went twice, the town of Montepulciano, and the perfect Renaissance town of Pienza.? There were some disappointments that taught us where not to go as well.? Restaurants that are full and bustling, but without an Italian in the place.? We were in Italy, right?? Or were we in Germany or England?? Several got scratched off of our list, and that is a good thing.

Rome: Continues to amaze us and we have been visiting annually for over 20 years, with guests and on our own.? Exploration of some sites we’d not seen before proved fruitful.? The hillside town of Tivoli, just outside of Rome, with its two enormous villas will make a great addition to a week long itinerary in Rome.? This would be a day trip, out of the bustling city to visit the ancient Roman Villa Adriana, lunch and then visit the Villa ‘d’Este c. 1565.? Both have gorgeous gardens, gushing fountains, and views of Rome.? A super way to spend an easy day, I loved it there. We were disappointed with a restaurant that we have been enjoying for years, because it decided to go up market.? So, whereas their pizza and pastas were wonderful, they have been replaced with items like parmigiano mousse served with middle eastern flat bread.? What?? I am in Italy, right?? Too bad.? But, the Enoteca (wine bar) near the bottom of the Spanish Steps, and Ciampini, at the top, were just as great as ever!

Home with patio, Herculaneum

Home with patio, c.79 AD - Herculaneum

Sorrento: This has become a favorite.? Perhaps the fact that? beautiful Hotel Antiche Mura pampers us is part of the reason we keep returning? Perhaps that, as well as the aqua waters lapping on the shore, the slower pace, the pirate history, the fresh seafood and icy white wines, and the limoncello? ? Yeah, that’s probably it.? In Sorrento it is easy for me to wrap my guests up in history and culture.? It is a place to let down, slow down, and just be.? A must for AHA clients.

This trip we visited Herculaneum (in Italian, Ercolano) for the first time.? A seaside city destroyed by the same volcanic eruption that flattened Pompeii, in 79 AD, but smaller and better preserved.? Unlike Pompeii, in Herculaneum we found full homes that survived with their artwork still on the walls.? I was able to walk through a home in which the dining room looked out onto a garden with a patio complete with patio furniture. ? I stood in the kitchen gazing out the window at the garden imagining that more than 1,930 years ago, a woman just like me, had done the same thing.? Perhaps she wondered what kind of weather they would have that day, as she watched her children play with a pet.? Suffice to say, that in Herculaneum, one could easily step back in time, and I loved it. I will look forward to sharing this experience with guests.

I began this post with my commitment to you, the AHA guest.? I hope that as you have read this article, it has become clear just how I will immerse you.? My goal is to envelope you in the people, the art, history, music, and food of the places we explore.? Complete Cultural Immersion, hope you can swim!

Happy Travels