Paris in the Morning

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PARIS 201: BEYOND THE EIFFEL TOWER

JUNE 2-9, 2011 ~ 7 DAYS ~ GROUP SIZE : 6 to 8

PRICE PER PERSON: $3,600.00

Paris is one of the most beautiful cities in the world, no doubt about it. My guests and I have been visiting for years, and  it is high time that AHA offered a Paris 201. And so, in the late spring, June 2 – 9, 2011 we will do just that.  As its title describes, this itinerary will be a more under the surface and a farther afield, visit to Paris. While everyone else is standing in line at the Eiffel Tower or the Muse d’Orsay, we will go off the beaten track to the gems that the Parisians themselves enjoy:

• Porte de Clignancourt, the famous Parisian flea market
• Musee Rodin and gardens
• Musee Cluny and courtyard
• Giverny
• Musee Marmottan
• Musee Edith Piaf
• Cinematheque Francaise

This itinerary is for those who have perhaps enjoyed the great sights of Paris before, or are satisfied to see them from a distance, while experiencing some hidden treasures. On this trip, for example, at the Porte de Clignancourt, in the market’s antiques section, you will feel like a time traveler. I have spent many happy hours just wandering around the narrow winding paths, packed with booths selling things of all description. From Louie XVI furniture to second hand french dish towels, it is all here, and it is huge.  I especially love the antique linens and baby clothes.

As mentioned above, this trip will include museums that don’t make the “must see list” carried by weary first-timers.  These museums have gardens, courtyards, and are quietly enjoyed by Parisians.   For example, Musee Rodin is so beautiful, set in August Rodin’s private home and studio, it houses his most remarkable works, such as “The Kiss”.  In the garden sits “The Thinker”, huge and masterful, along with several other enormous sculptures.

The Musee Cluny displays art and artifacts from the Middle Ages in a very well preserved 15th century abbey, built on top of a Roman Bath. All levels are excavated and quite unbelievable!

Monet's Kitchen Door

We will spend an afternoon at Giverny, Claud Monet’s home and wonderous gardens, and be back in Paris for dinner.

Another treasure trove that is off the track, and thankfully so, is the Musee Marmottan. Located just a metro ride to the outskirts of Paris, housed in a beautiful 19th hunting pavillion, the largest collection in the world of works by Claud Monet, numbers 165.   Some of Monet’s personal collection is in this museum as well, and include his favorite pieces of art by his friends, Pissaro, Renoir, and Sisley.   Some of the most famous Monet’s can only be seen here at the out-of-the-way, Musee Marmottan.

We can visit the Musee Edith Piaf, a small apartment packed with memorabilia, intimate letters, photographs and more, lovingly collected by her fans.

We can wander through La Cinematheque Fancaise.  A museum to the history of the cinema and the evolution of film, with an amazing display of movie memorabilia dating back to the birth of cinema.

Having said all that, for me, a first day in Paris will always include an off loading of travel woes, “eau du fuselage”, and a settling down, in the beautiful, majestic and peaceful Notre Dame.  But from there, let’s dig deeper into Paris!

I will provide a suggested reading and viewing list for all travelers that sign up for Paris 201: Beyond the Eiffel Tower.  In this way, you will be knowledgeable and well prepared for your visit.

Royal Hawaiian Gardens

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ALOHA CALIFORNIA

OCTOBER 15 – 22, 2011 ~ 8 DAYS ~ GROUP SIZE: 6

PRICE PER PERSON: $3,175.00

Just back from 5 gorgeous days of research and development in Honolulu. Based on my findings below, AHA will offer an itinerary called “Aloha California”  October 15-22, 2011. It will consist of 3 days in beautiful San Francisco and 4 days in Hawaii. More details on this MEW itinerary below FINDINGS.

FINDINGS:

For me, the key to Waikiki is simple, it is all about the genteel pink oasis called The Royal Hawaiian.  We approached the hotel along the very glitzy Kalakaua Avenue lined on both sides like Rodeo Drive. With Coach, Fendi, Cartier, Tiffany, Louis Vuitton, Tommy Bahama and more, all in attendance.  Carefully, our car turned right and ambled down a long driveway, leaving the shopping center far behind us.  The first thing I noticed, after the gorgeous pink stucco facade, was the quiet!  Then the orchid leis put around our necks.
The hotel has recently undergone a huge refurbish and I was so fearful that it’s old word charm and peace would somehow have been sold to the highest bidder.  Not so, not so.  The gorgeous sweeping gardens still wrap around the low slung hotel with its spacious open verandas that  insist  you sit down, unwind and let the warm Trade Winds lull you.

ITINERARY:

Chinatown Dragon, San Francisco

Day 1 through 3 will be spent in and around San Francisco.  The colorful streets of its huge Chinatown, to beautiful Union Square, a boat ride and guided tour of the haunting Alcatraz, and a walk through the enormous and majestic Redwood trees in the Muir Woods.  We will drive across the famous Golden Gate and down the “crookedest street in the world”, Lombard Street, and finish up at the Tonga Room at the Fairmont Hotel, which is really fun!

Day 4 we will catch our morning flights to gorgeous Hawaii.  Arriving at he Royal Hawaiian about lunch time, we will check into our rooms and start to really unwind.  The balance of this day is for laying around and enjoying the huge gardens.

Days 5 through 7 will be mostly pure relaxation either on the beach and in the warm water waves, around the pool, in the spa, or shopping.  One of these three days will include a trip to the world famous Polynesian Cultural Center for a day wandering among the various villages of the Polynesian peoples.  Characteristic foods, native music and dance abound.  This is my little injection of art and history into this itinerary, and it is fascinating.

Day 8 – Flights home from Hawaii.

If this sounds lovely to you, start thinking about Aloha California with AHA, October 15 – 22, 2011.

Fragrant Plumaria, Hawaii

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Cobblestoned Tuscany

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I am thrilled to be able to bring down the price of our Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast itinerary, September 14 – 21, 2010.  Original price $5,000.00, new price $4,400.00. Nice!

Because of the strength of the dollar to the Euro I have been able to re-calculate the price of this awesome trip!

The strength of the dollar seems to be a positive indicator that the economy is coming back bit by bit. Coupled with the great price of airline tickets, and the fact that guests are signing up for AHA travel in 2010 and 2011, after a very quiet 2009, are further signs.  Let’s hope the trend continues.

What is “AHA Style”?  AHA is true to its name, Art History Alive, and each itinerary focuses on it, wherever we are.  Lightly educational in nature and full of cultural detail, from music to cuisine, from architecture to the greatest artwork ever, this is AHA Style.  Add to that micro-group size for fun and flexibility and you truly do have a “travel style”.  Ah Ha!

Our September 2010, Tuscany and The Amalfi Coast trip, the first time we have offered this particular combination, the cobblestoned hilltowns of Tuscany, and the seaside of Italy.  You’ve got to admit that this is a wonderful contrast.  If  you are unfamiliar with these areas, take my word for it, it is a killer combo and then, sign up!  Hearty Tuscan food, complimented by mouth watering country wines, juxtaposed against the fresh, light sea food of the seaside, while dining al fresco (outside) enjoying crispy white local wines.  Paleeeeeeze!  All the while surrounded by  the incredible Etruscan civilization of Tuscany, surprisingly in sync with American ideals, and the very same ideals that the early Romans stole for their own, plus harrowing tales of the marauding Pirate history of the Southern Coast.  Brain fed, tummy fed.  Hm m m m, can it get any better?  Not for me.

Stretch your brain, and tantalize your taste buds.  With this price reduction, the savings just about cover the price of your round trip ticket to Italy!

The Top of Capri

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Reflection in a Meadow Pond

I am very happy to say that I have been able to reduce the price of one of AHA’s upcoming trips, and I hope to be able to reduce the price of a second.  More on that soon.

It pleases me no end to announce that Art History Alive’s – Gold Rush Wines and Yosemite, October 15 – 18, which was priced at $1600.00,  is now $1300.00! This all-inclusive four day fall escape with all meals, wines, wine tasting, transportation, a two hour spa treatment, historic hotel accommodations, and two days in Yosemite staying overnight at the beautiful Ahwahnee Hotel, is a great deal!  Having just stayed at the Ahwahnee, I can tell you first hand that the entire hotel is a wonder of Native American decor.  Priceless baskets, artwork galore, plus huge crackling fires in the walk-in sized fireplaces, all surrounded by two story picture windows that bring the outside in.  Staying at the Ahwahnee is a unique, and lingering experience.  I have selected rooms in the immense granite and pine hotel with beautiful views, as well as separate cottages in the quiet forest just outside.  Your choice.

Come and join our little group, who together will relax, go wine tasting, and rejuvenate.  We will share the majesty of Yosemite, and the wonder of this National Park, during its quiet fall season.  Love to have you, and I can’t wait!

Steak Frites in Paris and Now in NYC

Hello Everyone,

A good friend who visited Paris with me many years ago, recently sent an article published in The New Yorker, February 8, 2010, page 12.   I am very happy tosay that Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecote opened its doors in NYC.  This fifty year old Parisian restaurant is a stand out favorite of AHA’s, and if you have traveled to Paris with me in the last fifteen years, this is where you dined your first night.  Absolutely famous for the one thing that it serves up to hungry diners every night, are the steak frites, smothered in a secret sauce that makes ones knees go weak. Starting to come back?  Ringing any bells?  Drooling yet?  Many of you have begged me to return to L’Entrecote for a second meal before the trip home, which I am always happy to do.  Not only have all of my guests experienced L’Enrecote, but over the years, we have recommended it to anyone on their way to the City of Light.  And even though they serve just one prix fixe entree, preceded by a small but good salad, and some crunchy butterless bread, all for $24.00, they offer no less than ten to twelve desserts, for a few dollars more.  The most famous being Profiteroles, and  my favorite, the Berry Tulip. (photos below)

For years people have tried to recreate this fabulous savory sauce by first guessing its ingredients.  Many fun AHA evenings have been spent in Paris around a table at L’Entrecote as my guests and I try our hardest to figure it out.

Some years back a friend and wonderful cook, Katie McKenny, decided she thought she had it.  A few weeks after returning home I received her recipe for what she called “Cyndie’s First Night In Paris Secret Sauce”.  I have made this sauce many times, usually by request (or demand), and it is very, very close.  In fact, the recipe is barely legible for the splatter stains.  I thought it would be fun to post Katie’s recipe here, and hope that the next blog photo you see of me will NOT be in handcuffs, being lead away by the Haute Cuisine police.

Have fun with this and let me know if you think Katie got it!

Cyndie’s First Night In Paris Secret Sauce

By Katie McKenny

Profiteroles ala L'Entrecote

1       Tablespoon Olive Oil

3/4    teaspoon turmeric

4       3″ pieces of lemon grass

1/2    teaspoon chili powder

1       can coconut milk

3       cloves garlic, minced

1/2     teaspoon fresh ginger root, grated

1/2     teaspoon salt and some freshly ground pepper

1/3     cup red wine

meat juices

In the hot oil, cook lemon grass, ginger, turmeric, garlic, and chili powder for about 6 minutes, stirring.

Add coconut milk, mix well and simmer very slowly to thicken, about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Remove lemon grass.  Taste and adjust.

Just before serving add wine and the meat juices after you have sliced the meat.

For more information on the new Le Relais De Venise L’Entrcote in NYC visit: http://www.yelp.com/biz/le-relais-de-venise-lentrecote-new-york

The Berry Tulip ala L'Entrecote

Vittoria

I would like you to meet my friend Vittoria.  As you can see she has lived a long life, and all of it in tiny, Civita de Bagnoregio.  All of her life, that is, except for a short time during, and just after WWII, and this is her story.

The population of Civita di Bagnoregio ranges anywhere from 15 to 75, depending on the season, and Vittoria is one of the 15.  Many of you have visited this most haunting of hill towns, either with me, for I NEVER visit Tuscany/Lazio without walking the cobblestone streets of Civita, or on your own.  And if you did it on your own, congratulations!  One has to REALLY want to go there to be determined enough to find it, all tucked away in her hills.  But, as you approach, she rises up on her tufa throne, and sits majestically, albeit precariously, right up on top.  An amazing sight.

Civita de Bagnoregio dates back 3,000 years, to before the Etruscan civilization, which pre-dates the Romans.  Now, as interesting as this “City of Dead” is, and how it got its name, this story is about Vittoria.  The story that she related to me one sunny afternoon, was that of her memories of World War II in her little town when she was 22 years old.

She began by explaining that around 1943, Civita di Bagnoregio was a bit larger than it is now, and that the concrete and steel bridge

Civita di Bagnoregio with its Bridge

that spans the surrounding chasm, the only artery to the arched entrance gate of Civita, is a handsome one, but not the one that she grew up with.  The old stone bridge that she referred to was wide enough for people to pass a donkey cart as they hiked from Civita to the larger town of Bagnoregio, located across the very deep canyon.  Vittoria told me that the people of Civita would cross the bridge to shop for what they needed, because their tiny town had very little in the way of shops.  Stopping along the way to visit with their neighbors, the bridge was a lifeline to the outside world.

The bridge is 900 feet in length, is rather steep and takes about 15 minutes to walk.

Toward the end of the WWII, when the Germans were being ordered to retreat north to Germany, the bombing in Tuscany and Lazio intensified.  Vittoria remembers the sounds of the planes flying so close that even as she tells me the story, she briefly covers her ears.  With bombs dropping within earshot, as the Allies were attempting to blow up the train lines thereby hindering the retreating Germans, a bomb destroyed the bridge connecting Civita to the rest of the world.

Civita di Bagnoregio

Fleeing their homes on top of the hill, where they felt exposed and vulnerable, the small band of citizens huddled together in an Etruscan cave built into the rock and under the town.  For many, many days, as they listened to the planes overhead, they stayed hidden, afraid to venture back to town and afraid of the destruction that they might encounter.  Vittoria cannot remember exactly how long they were in the cave before food and water became a determining factor in the creation of a plan.  She told me that the group decided that they had to try and get to their big sister, Bagnoregio for help.  Of course, with the bridge out, they had to find another way.  She explained that there was local knowledge of the old Etruscan walking routes, and after some exploration, they attempted the hike.  Even the elderly had to make the crossing, no one could be left behind.

One of Vittoria’s clearest memories, and she smiled as she described it, was climbing up to Bagnoregio and the people at the top extending their hands to pull the small band up and out of the valley that separated them.   The people of Bagnoregio took them in and shared what little they had.  Vittoria’s memory of time is unclear, but she simply said that they were in Bagnoregio for a very long time, and until the new stone bridge was complete.  Vittoria’s family chose to return to Civita, even though many of their neighbors did not.  The population of the little town decreased considerably and through the years was dubbed the “City of the Dead”.  As I mentioned above, the population of Civita has been as low as 15, but now swells to 75, with up to 200 day trippers on a summer weekend ( I avoid summer weekends at all costs).  Wealthy Romans have bought up many of the houses, still left in tact, as vacation homes, and, like Vittoria, a few of the elderly inhabitants remain.

Bruschetta Cave, Civita di Bagnoregio

The bridge, which is a vitally important component in the life of Civita, was again destroyed in 1964 by an earthquake, very prevalent in this area.  The concrete and steel bridge that we walk on today, to make our way to Vittoria, is yet another replacement.

Needless to say, Civita is a favorite of mine, and so I happily guide my guests across the bridge and into the town where this and other stories are told over crunchy bruschetta toasted in a fireplace, washed down with a glass of wine, all while sitting in a cave.  This is Cultural Immersion Travel.

June 2010 will find AHA in Tuscany and Rome.  Civita di Bagnoregio will be on the itinerary.

Tips on visiting Civita di Bagnoregio:

• During the summer months avoid the weekends!
• Wear very comfortable clothes and shoes.  The walk is a hefty one, takes 15 to 20 minutes, but is so worth it!
• To get to my favorite Bruschetteria Antico Frantoio, with the entrance gate to your back, walk down the only main street.  The Cathedral will be on your left as you enter the Piazza.  Continue on the same street to the Bruschetteria on your left with a small courtyard in front.  Enjoy!
• Watch for Vittoria as she often sits in the sun across from the Bruschetteria.
• To arrive at the Etruscan caves where Vittoria hid, continue down the main street to the end of town (opposite end from where you entered).  There you will find some steps down, just follow them.
• A helpful link for planning a visit.

Lago di Como

“My commitment to cultural immersion travel is strong. That is why I insist on research trips.  I continue seeking out sites, smells, and tastes that will envelope and enrich my AHA guests.  This is a different kind of travel, a more personal approach, with a focus on a deeper understanding of a culture other than our own.”  -Cynthia Quist

Wonderful discoveries and some dismal disappointments.  That sums up three weeks of pretty intense research in Italy for Jim and I.  We worked hard, ate a lot, and took notes on everything.  One difficult night, the only consolation that we had, as we laid awake in our two tiny twin beds in a HOT, stuffy room with a party going on outside our windows, was the knowledge that you, our guests, would never have to experience this.  On the other hand, in Sorrento, where we had booked for just two nights, everything was so perfect that we longed to extend our stay.

Our itinerary: Paris 3 days, Lake Como 3 days, Tuscany 6 days, Rome 5 days, Sorrento 2 days.

We covered a large part of that little boot, (and sometimes felt as though we had been kicked by it).  The good news is that our guests benefit from the good and the ill.  Based on our pages of notes we will create a beautiful and delicious new Italian Itinerary for 2011.  It will be a Northern Italian trip to include The Lakes region, Florence, and Northern Tuscany.  If you are interested in the new itinerary, keep your eye on this blog.

But for the present, if you are interested in a, post-battle report on our three week sojourn, here you go.

Paris Bakery

Paris: Hotel Pas du Calais remains a favorite, with its warm and welcoming staff, pretty rooms, delicious breakfast, and a perfect location on the Left Bank.

We will be adding the beautiful town and immense cathedral of Chartres to our Paris itinerary in the future.  A beautiful day trip from Paris.  We discovered new parts of Versailles to explore, and some that we weren’t supposed to be in.  Oops!

The food in Paris was a dismal disappointment, and it shouldn’t ever be that way.  We ate at all types of eateries, and found the bistros and brasseries to be most dependable.  The two star Micheline, with it’s fish foam, will surly appeal to some, but I think I lost weight in Paris.  Our favorite brasserie, is as delicious as ever and I wouldn’t miss eating there for anything.  However, the day we left Paris we felt we were fleeing the land of butter, cream, and Bordeaux wines, and were in a hurry to arrive in the land of tomatoes, olive oil, and brunello.

Lakeside lunch at the San Giorgio

Lake Como: The four star Grand Hotel Imperiale was a bit of a disappointment.  But the very peaceful Hotel San Giorgio was adorable and is calling to me this very minute.  Located on the lake with a large gently rolling lawn, dotted with lawn furniture and easing down to the lapping edge of the lake, is the place for me.  Not trying to be something it is not, it exudes character, delicious food, and a lakeside walk into the little town of Lenno.  From here you can catch a boat to other pretty towns on the banks of the lake, never having to get into a car.  All of this with the snow capped Swiss Alps looming above you.  This place was magic and I will be sure that my guests have enough time here to really let down.

We landed on four wonderful restaurants here.  The garden and terrace restaurant at the San Giorgio, where Jim swears he had the best pizza of his life and I had a beautifully presented caprese salad.  After lunch it was all we could do not to drop into one of the hotel lounges for a nap.  If we had been guests of the San Giorgio, that is exactly what we would have done, but instead we walked to Lenno and did some exploring.  Darling!

Another wonderful discovery was Trattoria Del Fagiano (guinea fowl), high up above the lake, each course in this great place was perfect.  Maria Louisa and Enza run the front, and you better clean your plate or you are going to hear about it.  Wilma is in

The Fagiano Crew

the kitchen with Chef Gabriele, who masterminds the absolutely delicious country Italian fare, and Mr. Giorgio (Wilma’s husband) runs the bar and makes the oh so important espressos.  I cannot wait to share Trattoria Del Fagiano with AHA travelers!  The Italian menu was daunting so Maria Luisa took over.  If you are interested, below is a description of what she decided we were going to enjoy at this eatery.
Antipasti: Paper thin prosciutto with shaved parmigiano cheese, sauteed mushrooms, bruschetta topped with bacon, braseola with melted mozzarella, drizzled with vinegar.  At that point, and I know that you know this feeling, I was pretty much done.  Oh no, no, no.  Primi piatti – house twisted pasta with a sauce of  light tomato and ground fagiano, plus the lightest crepe ever, oozing a bechamel sauce, rolled then sliced very thinly, smothered in fresh tomatoes and baked in the oven.  OK, now its not funny.  Remember those elastic waisted pants I bought before departure, yeah well, you can imagine where I am going with this when Maria Louisa arrives at our table with a wild boar stew served over country polenta.  Yeah, not to filling.  But hey, I told myself I was doing it all for you, the reader and traveler, it was my responsibility, right?  Jim looked across the table at me and gasped something rather negative about our food in Paris . . . .

Prosciutto on melon

A departure from the country food is the Imperialino. Very, very beautiful terrace dining, lakeside.  Service was impeccable and yet friendly, and the food was absolutely wonderful.  I just have to mention my antipasti.  I ordered Prosciutto and melon and that is what I received but the presentation was amazing.  Thin slices of cantaloupe covered the bottom of my huge plate, but someone had taken the thin prosciutto and fashioned it delicately into the shape of a rose in full bloom sitting on top.  I will look forward to sharing this quiet, elegant restaurant with guests.

And finally, La Locanda.  This place you have to experience to believe.  Located on the only island on Lake Como, we arrived by boat to a very famous, yet casual six course lunch, under a tree on the terrace.  Please!!!!  It just could not have been more perfect.  This became a must for all of the AHA trips to the Lake Como area.  Take a look at their website.  Too fun!

From Lago Di Como we headed south to Pienza, located in the heart of Tuscany for the next six days, stopping for lunch in Cremona.  Cremona is the town where Stradivari lived and created his perfect violins, now on display, and I have wanted to visit for many years.  It was not a disappointment.

Abbey of Saint Antimo, Tuscany

Tuscany:  Staying in a beautifully redesigned farmhouse on top of a hill, we relished traveling through the area at a very leisurely pace.  The high points were the 12th century Abby of Saint Antimo, where the resident Gregorian monks chant . . . .  stunning.  The beef steak restaurant, Osteria Acquacheto, so good we went twice, the town of Montepulciano, and the perfect Renaissance town of Pienza.  There were some disappointments that taught us where not to go as well.  Restaurants that are full and bustling, but without an Italian in the place.  We were in Italy, right?  Or were we in Germany or England?  Several got scratched off of our list, and that is a good thing.

Rome: Continues to amaze us and we have been visiting annually for over 20 years, with guests and on our own.  Exploration of some sites we’d not seen before proved fruitful.  The hillside town of Tivoli, just outside of Rome, with its two enormous villas will make a great addition to a week long itinerary in Rome.  This would be a day trip, out of the bustling city to visit the ancient Roman Villa Adriana, lunch and then visit the Villa ‘d’Este c. 1565.  Both have gorgeous gardens, gushing fountains, and views of Rome.  A super way to spend an easy day, I loved it there. We were disappointed with a restaurant that we have been enjoying for years, because it decided to go up market.  So, whereas their pizza and pastas were wonderful, they have been replaced with items like parmigiano mousse served with middle eastern flat bread.  What?  I am in Italy, right?  Too bad.  But, the Enoteca (wine bar) near the bottom of the Spanish Steps, and Ciampini, at the top, were just as great as ever!

Home with patio, c.79 AD - Herculaneum

Sorrento: This has become a favorite.  Perhaps the fact that  beautiful Hotel Antiche Mura pampers us is part of the reason we keep returning? Perhaps that, as well as the aqua waters lapping on the shore, the slower pace, the pirate history, the fresh seafood and icy white wines, and the limoncello?   Yeah, that’s probably it.  In Sorrento it is easy for me to wrap my guests up in history and culture.  It is a place to let down, slow down, and just be.  A must for AHA clients.

This trip we visited Herculaneum (in Italian, Ercolano) for the first time.  A seaside city destroyed by the same volcanic eruption that flattened Pompeii, in 79 AD, but smaller and better preserved.  Unlike Pompeii, in Herculaneum we found full homes that survived with their artwork still on the walls.  I was able to walk through a home in which the dining room looked out onto a garden with a patio complete with patio furniture.   I stood in the kitchen gazing out the window at the garden imagining that more than 1,930 years ago, a woman just like me, had done the same thing.  Perhaps she wondered what kind of weather they would have that day, as she watched her children play with a pet.  Suffice to say, that in Herculaneum, one could easily step back in time, and I loved it. I will look forward to sharing this experience with guests.

I began this post with my commitment to you, the AHA guest.  I hope that as you have read this article, it has become clear just how I will immerse you.  My goal is to envelope you in the people, the art, history, music, and food of the places we explore.  Complete Cultural Immersion, hope you can swim!

Happy Travels

Civita de Bagnoregio

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ITALY – TUSCANY and ROME
JUNE 11 – 19, 2011 ~ 9 DAYS ~ GROUP SIZE: 6
PRICE PER PERSON: $3,600.00

NOTE: Below is a good example of just what travel is like with ART HISTORY ALIVE. If you find that this post does not pique your interest, then you may not be a good fit for AHA, but if you begin reading and find yourself wanting to read and learn more, it is ten times better when we are there.  Cynthia

After arriving in Rome and having our first cappuccino in Italy together, we will gather into our spacious, panoramic-windowed van and travel toward the tiny hill town of Proceno, in southern Tuscany. However, on our way, we will drive up a hill to soaring Orvieto for a delicious lunch and the first of many an awe inspiring wander. No one actually knows the age of Orvieto, however we do know that around 750 B.C. the Etruscans thrived here, inheriting it from their Iron and Bronze Age ancestors. How exciting it is to visit a city that has survived for thousands of years, with its bustle interrupted only once, in the 14th century, by the Black Plague. We will meander at our own pace through Orvieto’s crown jewel, her Cathedral, with its brightly colored mosaic facade. Built over a mere 300 years, it holds precious art that I love to visit and share. So, within two hours of landing in Italy you will be immersed in its ancient beauty, and this will just be the beginning.

Forty minutes deeper into beautiful Tuscany and we will arrive at Castello di Proceno. This castle/fortress was built in the 11th century and has been creatively redesigned into several beautiful apartments. This is my favorite landing spot in all of Tuscany.

Once we check in and relax a bit, we will take a walk around town so that you can get your bearings. It isn’t difficult as it is tiny, but the views, in all directions are dreamlike, no, actually they are “calendarlike”. I will introduce you to Pucci and Giovanni, the owners of the castle, Roberto the grocer, where you can buy anything from locally made salami, to bedroom slippers, and Gianfranco, of Trattoria da Gianfranco. The castle will be our home for the next four days as we explore more picturesque hilltowns and savor some of the most delicious food and wine you will have ever tasted.

On the list of must sees, in these first four days, are the cathedral of Sovana, that took so long to build that it actually spans two architectural periods. So, as we sit in the back of the church you will see that two of its three aisles are Romanesque and the third is Gothic. Amazing! The hilltown hamlet of Pienza that was, luckily for us, caught in a time warp. During the first half of the 1400’s, Pope Pius II, responsible for the revitalization and redesigning of his beloved hometown, was called away to raise troops for a crusade to the Holy Land. He left a Papal Bull, in beautiful Latin, that stated nothing should be touched until his return. Unfortunately, in 1465 he died while away, and Pienza dutifully has left everything just as it was. Because of this, a visit to Pienza gives us a real time snapshot of Tuscan life in the 1400’s. Pienza was miraculously spared during World War II bombing raids, however the machine gun holes in the exterior side wall of the cathedral are a reminder of what happened here when both Germans and Americans took turns occupying Pienza and the surrounding towns. This is a fascinating area with lots to explore, learn and taste. Brunellos come from here as does a most delicious soft, not salty, pecorino cheese.

And who can be in this area and not visit the most haunting of all hilltowns, Civita di Bagnoregio?

Not me! Civita sits a top a rock spur, built entirely of rock taken from the spur, it appears to be something organic that simply grew out of the mountain. However, because of earthquakes over the centuries much of the spur and city have dropped away, leaving Civita sitting like a diamond nestled in a round solitaire setting. There is one approach to the city, a walking bridge that spans the gorge that encircles Civita.

Often, in the morning, the city is engulfed in clouds or fog and it appears that the bridge leads to no where. Sometimes the fog fills just the gorge with Civita above as if floating in the sky. This is like nothing else you would have seen up to this point, and you will remember it always. Comfortable walking shoes, a camera, and a hefty appetite are a must for Civita da Bagnoregio.

Eventually, all roads should lead to the awesome city of Rome at least once in a lifetime. Jim and I have traveled far and wide in this world, but since our discovery of Italy in 1987, we return every chance we get. And in all of that little boot, Rome has the strongest draw for us.  Accumulatively, we have spent over 4 months in that city, and still we keep going back. Of everywhere we have been, Rome holds for us the richest and most stimulating bounty of art, history, architecture (which is an art), and culture, hands down.  And the people . . . . . . . !

On this trip we will literally spend time in, under, and around Rome. Our tiny group of travelers will go down into a hidden, lesser-known catacomb under the bustling Roman streets on a guided tour where you can ask all the questions you need to fully understand. We will wander the Forum and Coliseum, explore St. Peter’s Basilica and experience the art of Michelangelo, Bernini, and Caravaggio. Along the way and over delicious meals, these questions and more will be answered:

On warm evenings we will sit in outside cafés on cobblestone alleys and watch the most interesting people in the world stroll by. We will shop, rest and overall, catch the Spirit of Rome which, you will want to take home with you.

Physical Level: Moderate

Art History Alive will offer these four destinations in 2011! Great places to visit, more interesting things to learn, and very small groups. Over the next few weeks I will post a list of recommended reading and movies, destination specific, that will allow you to front load your travel experience.

You will notice that we have added two itineraries that include my absolute favorite places in California.  If Europe is not on

your radar screen for this year, consider touring the best that California has to offer.  I am a fifth generation Californian and would love to show you around.  I think that you will agree, this is wonderful line up and I sincerely hope that you will share it with your friends and family.

We are very happy to announce:

• Early booking benefits
• Alumni discounts
• Refundable deposits

The NEW money saving opportunities are on the Specials and Discounts Page. These trips can fill up fast so early booking is important and saves you money.

All trips include: Hotels, all meals and house wines, (well, you don’t have to have wine with breakfast) ground transportation, museum admissions, and travel insurance.

Cathedral, Orvieto

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TUSCANY AND THE AMALFI COAST
SEPTEMBER 15 – 22, 2011 ~ 8 DAYS ~ GROUP SIZE: 6
PRICE PER PERSON: $3,850.00

This incredible trip to Italy will be the first time I have paired these two destinations and what an awesome combination it will be! We’ll start in Tuscany’s tiny cobbled hilltowns, during the grape harvest, no less, and end in the warm aqua blue waters of the Mediterranean. Oooo, can’t wait for this one!

After arriving in Rome and having our first cappuccino in Italy together, we will gather into our spacious, panoramic-windowed van and travel toward the tiny hill town of Proceno, in southern Tuscany. However, on our way, we will drive up a hill to soaring Orvieto for a delicious lunch and the first of many an awe inspiring wander. No one actually knows the age of Orvieto, however we do know that around 750 B.C. the Etruscans thrived here, inheriting it from their Iron and Bronze Age ancestors. How exciting it is to visit a city that has survived for thousands of years, with its bustle interrupted only once, in the 14th century, by the Black Plague. We will meander at our own pace through Orvieto’s crown jewel, her Cathedral, with its brightly colored mosaic facade. Built over a mere 300 years, it holds precious art that I love to visit and share. So, within two hours of landing in Italy you will be immersed in its ancient beauty, and this will just be the beginning.

Forty minutes deeper into beautiful Tuscany and we will arrive at Castello di Proceno. This castle/fortress was built in the 11th century and has been creatively redesigned into several beautiful apartments. This is my favorite landing spot in all of Tuscany. Once we check in and relax a bit, we will take a walk around town so that you can get your bearings. It isn’t difficult as it is tiny, but the views, in all directions are dreamlike, no, actually they are “calendarlike”. I will introduce you to Pucci and Giovanni, the owners of the castle, Roberto the grocer, where you can buy anything from locally made salami, to bedroom slippers, and Gianfranco, of Trattoria da Gianfranco. The castle will be our home for the next four days as we explore more picturesque hilltowns and savor some of the most delicious food and wine you will have ever tasted.

WW II machine gun holes, Pienza

On the list of must sees, in these first four days, are the cathedral of Sovana, that took so long to build that it actually spans two architectural periods. So, as we sit in the back of the church you will see that two of its three aisles are Romanesque and the third is Gothic. Amazing! The hilltown hamlet of Pienza that was, luckily for us, caught in a time warp. During the first half of the 1400’s, Pope Pius II, responsible for the revitalization and redesigning of his beloved hometown, was called away to raise troops for a crusade to the Holy Land. He left a Papal Bull, in beautiful Latin, that stated nothing should be touched until his return. Unfortunately, in 1465 he died while away, and Pienza dutifully has left everything just as it was. Because of this, a visit to Pienza gives us a real time snapshot of Tuscan life in the 1400’s. Pienza was miraculously spared during World War II bombing raids, however the machine gun holes in the exterior side wall of the cathedral are a reminder of what happened here when both Germans and Americans took turns occupying Pienza and the surrounding towns. This is a fascinating area with lots to explore, learn and taste. Brunellos come from here as does a most delicious soft, not salty, pecorino cheese.

And who can be in this area and not visit the most haunting of all hilltowns, Civita di Bagnoregio? Not me! Civita sits a top a rock spur, built entirely of rock taken from the spur, it appears to be something organic that

simply grew out of the mountain. However, because of earthquakes over the centuries much of the spur and city have dropped away, leaving Civita sitting like a diamond nestled in a round solitaire setting. There is one approach to the city, a walking bridge that spans the gorge that encircles Civita. Often, in the morning, the city is engulfed in clouds or fog and it appears that the bridge leads to no where. Sometimes the fog fills just the gorge with Civita above as if floating in the sky. This is like nothing else you would have seen up to this point, and you will remember it always. Comfortable walking shoes, a camera, and a hefty appetite are a must for Civita da Bagnoregio.

Eventually, we will have to say goodbye to our castle and Tuscany, and head south to

The top of Capri

Rome where we will jump a fast train and travel further south to the dramatic Amalfi Coast. This is the land of old lemon trees, heavy with the fruit that will lend itself to that delicious, yellow, after dinner concoction, limoncello. The land of soft buffalo milk mozzarella, and fresh fish. While here our homebase will be gorgeous Sorrento.  Sorrento is built high above the Mediterranean on a flat plateau, where you can walk to the edge and look straight down into the warm, see-through water. Here, overlooking the aqua waters of the Mediterranean, where centuries ago pirates marauded, we will wander, shop, visit Pompeii, Capri, and maybe even Amalfi, mostly by sea. With all the fresh seafood and crispy white wines you can take in, you will ask yourself, “Can it get any better than this?” Nope!

Lunch Sorrento

Which will be your favorite? Cobblestoned Tuscany, with its full o’flavor wines and where you met the locals and stayed in a castle, or the warm seafront terraces and fishing villages of the Amalfi Coast? These will be ongoing comparisons that may never have a definitive conclusion. As for me, after 20 years of loving these places, I could say it’s like comparing apples and oranges, but it’s not, it’s cobblestones and lemons.
Physical level: Moderately Strenuous

Art History Alive will offer these four destinations in 2011! Great places to visit, more interesting things to learn, and very small groups. Over the next few weeks I will post a list of recommended reading and movies, destination specific, that will allow you to front load your travel experience.

You will notice that we have added two itineraries that include my absolute favorite places in California.  If Europe is not on your radar screen for this year, consider touring the best that California has to offer.  I am a fifth generation Californian and would love to show you around.  I think that you will agree, this is wonderful line up and I sincerely hope that you will share it with your friends and family.

We are very happy to announce:

• Early booking benefits
• Alumni discounts
• Refundable deposits

The NEW money saving opportunities are on the Specials and Discounts Page. These trips can fill up fast so early booking is important and saves you money.

All trips include: Hotels, all meals and house wines, (well, you don’t have to have wine with breakfast) ground transportation, museum admissions, and travel insurance.

Inspiration Point, Yosemite National Park

CALIFORNIA GOLD RUSH WINES, AND YOSEMITE

October 15 – 18, 2010 ~ 4 DAYS

GROUP SIZE: 4-6
PRICE PER PERSON $1,300.00

This tour’s focus is pampering first and then regaining perspective. Designed with working professionals in mind, and yet not exclusive, we will leave the bustling Bay Area and drive to the slower paced heart of the California Gold Rush, Sonora.  Nestled in the foothills of the mighty Sierra Nevada Mountains, we will spend two days between relaxing professional spa treatments, and tasting some of the best wines produced in this area.  Leave it to AHA to discover relaxing spa treatments in an historical building built in 1895. Now, that is cultural immersion! Built after the gold rush, this classic western boomtown style building with its wooden sidewalks, was the very necessary Mundorf Hardware store with the Mundorf family living above. They would probably be shocked to know that within the rooms where they raised their children, today, soft music and candle light beckon clients into the quiet,warm and relaxing treatment rooms.

Our spa treatments will be divided between a one hour body massage that is designed by you, and another glorious hour-long European facial. Whether you prefer a Swedish, sports, or lighter aromatherapy massage, it will be tailored to your achieving an all over “wet noodle” experience. I have spoken at length with, and experienced first hand these professionals, and they understand completely what my goal is for each of you traveling with me on this trip. Pampered excellence and a long lingering memory of travel with Art History Alive.

Day 2:  After a nice breakfast in Sonora we will drive to the adorable town of Murphy’s , CA.  Here the main street is about four blocks long, lined on both sides with fun shops and oodles of tasting rooms.  We know these well and are wine club members of a few, so we will introduce you to some of the winemakers and let you choose your favorites.  The last time I took this trip, my guests  became wine club members as well, and now receive regular shipments from Murphy’s, a nice reminder of their time there.

The Ahwahnee Hotel Dwarfed by the Royal Arches in Background

Day 3:  After breakfast we will drive into Yosemite National Park and check into our beautiful rooms at the unique Ahwahnee Hotel.   This historic hotel, built in 1926 and like no other in its massive grandeur, still cannot compete with the drama and majesty of Yosemite Valley. You will feel your life slip into perspective as we quietly walk the pathways of Yosemite with its enormous granite cliffs surrounding us and as its magnificent waterfalls crash; all outside troubles and pressures seem to morph back into perspective where they should be.  Now we are on Yosemite time.  All my life I have been visiting this natural cathedral and always have the same response to it.  It makes me quiet, thoughtful and enormously thankful.  If you have been before, maybe it is time to go again, if this will be your first time, brace yourself for a powerful experience.

“Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play and pray in, where Nature may heal and cheer and give strength to body and soul alike.” John Muir

From Yosemite we will drive back to the Bay Area and life, but uplifted, I promise.

Physical Level: Moderately Strenuous.

Art History Alive will offer these five destinations in 2010! Great places to visit, more interesting things to learn, and very small groups. Over the next few weeks I will post on each tour individually to include a more detailed description, and a list of recommended reading and movies that will allow you to front load your travel experience.

You will notice that we have added two itineraries that include my absolute favorite places in California.  If Europe is not on

California wild flowers

your radar screen for this year, consider touring the best that California has to offer.  I am a fifth generation Californian and would love to show you around.  I think that you will agree, this is wonderful line up and I sincerely hope that you will share it with your friends and family.

We are very happy to announce:

• Early booking benefits
• Alumni discounts
• Refundable deposits

The NEW money saving opportunities are on the Specials and Discounts Page. These trips can fill up fast so early booking is important and saves you money.

All trips include: Hotels, all meals and house wines, (well, you don’t have to have wine with breakfast) ground transportation, museum admissions, and travel insurance.